Ring and Pinion help

[06 H3]

 

[bebe]

Honestly there is really no way to tell if the case is stretched, and you broke pinion teeth and not ring gear teeth. I would look closely at your pinion bearing....a worn pinion bearing will allow the pinion to move when under load. That may be the issue. (And from what I can see yours looks pretty hammered).

Yes, backlash will be set for the use of the truck. So even though he says .05, he knows he can go to .03...but until it's set up and he can check the lash, he'll decide then where to leave it. He's knows what he's doing, so I wouldn't over think it for him. He's been on Pirate since 2000. If he was a schmuck they would have run him off a long time ago.

 

[06 H3]

Honestly there is really no way to tell if the case is stretched, and you broke pinion teeth and not ring gear teeth. I would look closely at your pinion bearing....a worn pinion bearing will allow the pinion to move when under load. That may be the issue. (And from what I can see yours looks pretty hammered).

Yes, backlash will be set for the use of the truck. So even though he says .05, he knows he can go to .03...but until it's set up and he can check the lash, he'll decide then where to leave it. He's knows what he's doing, so I wouldn't over think it for him. He's been on Pirate since 2000. If he was a schmuck they would have run him off a long time ago.

least blown AAM-7 ever??

Look left to the drip...couldnt capture it. 2 teeth broken on the pinion, ring gear is fine.

I said I destroyed my pinion in my other thread. Must be a typo here...:wink:

http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?6450-dishpan-springs-9-27-13

I will just ship it off to him and let me do his thing. So Last question. Everything is out, except 2 metal pieces. I cant get these ****ers out....

Its #31 and #33 in the diagram below.

http://schwarttzy.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Hummer-H3-Front-Drive-Axle.pdf

Should I will replace all the bearings? I might as well with my mileage. Do I supply them or will he buy them and add it to the tab when I pay?

 

[4speedfunk]

Definitely replace the bearings. First off, you're high-mileage so the bearings are without question half-way through their practical lifespan...even if the diff was in perfect condition. Second, you have driven 100 miles with the Cuisinart running...grinding small pieces of teeth into "tooth dust" and marring the bearing surfaces. Third, its sometimes impossible to remove and re-install the pinion bearings without destroying them. So...NEW case, NEW r&p, NEW bearings, NEW seals, etc. That's the right way to do it. If you plan to re-use your open carrier, make sure to give it a good cleaning and check for spider damage.

Looking back at that diagram: You can junk items #31, #32, #33 (crush sleeve, pinion bearing, pinion shim)....just leave em on the old pinion and display it on the "carnage shelf" in your garage. All of these will be replaced with new parts but, some guys like to pull the pinion shims out and use them to achieve a starting point for the new set-up. You might also include #48 & #52 (carrier shims) in your package to the set-up guy. The axle guys I know have boxes full of Dana, 12-bolt, and Ford shims but, since you got somewhat of an odd-ball build...including your old AAM-7 shims might be helpful to the the set-up guy.

The only items you need to salvage from the pinion are #1, #2, #3 (yoke, nut, and washer). These will get transferred to the new pinion. You might also need #7 (vent) and #53 (plug)...not sure if those come on the new cast-iron pumpkin. This is all standard axle rebuild stuff...the only exception being item #57 (half-shaft bearing), which is somewhat special for this IFS application. You'll probably want to install a new one in the side of the c.i. case. There is a similar roller #12 on the outboard end of the housing coupler #13 but, it is somewhat isolated from the shrapnel so you can probably leave it alone.

Those "cracks" in the aluminum are there on all AAM-7s. However, I don't think they are cracks...probably just a result of the casting process. I believe these cases may be "pressure cast", which might cause the strange appearance. If you look at them under a microscope you can still see traces of Dr. Pepper and Sprite cans.

 

[4speedfunk]

I'm pretty sure you'll need new ring-gear bolts too. The instructions (page 114) say to install NEW bolts, and that makes me wonder if they are TTY (single use). Might want to verify that with GM.

 

[06 H3]

Timken bearings any good? I know autozone carries them and a lot of jeepers use them...supposedly they are quality is like oem.

 

[speedy]

Timken bearings any good? I know autozone carries them and a lot of jeepers use them...supposedly they are quality is like oem.

Timken are fine. Who are you getting the gear set from? They should be able to put together a complete package. Bearings,seals,bolts etc. Don't overthink it let them do it for you.

 

[06 H3]

He was gonna call jay at west coast differential and get the gears...ill just ship the empty housing and other basic **** and let them do the rest

 

[bebe]

You're gonna replace the crush sleeve with something else....Dean and I talked about it. Don't ask... It's bad ass.

 

[06 H3]

I can't wait

 

[06 H3]

You are relying on just the bearing race to hold your wheel on. A good friend of mine did not listen and drove to work and got about half way there and lost his wheel. Ill see if I can get pics of the bearing apart so you can see what little bit of material is holding your wheel on... The cv stub has a bearing surface that the bearing rides on and the nut keeps everything preloaded to the right torque.

Don't forget to run the stubs of your cv shafts still bolted in your wheel bearings. If you don't you will be loosing a wheel trying to drive in 2wd

Was it an H3?

I put 700 miles on mine - but we did eventually gut the diff and put the axles back in and I then drove another 4K until I started my front end project.


Chris, take the ring gear out, leave the pinon in, take the drive line off and over fill the diff to keep the axle bearings oiled. You'll be good to go.


PS when you pull the ring gear bolts, it's the opposite of lefty loosey...it's righty loosey.

Driving 200-300 miles a week I needed to make sure I didnt lose a wheel bearing. I have driven on it like I am right now a few years ago and like bebe said she did for 700 miles but for an added piece of mind I took my original CVs from 05 (inners still in great condition, outers are SHOT) and seeing I have a total of 7 CV shafts I took the 2 bad outers cleaned them out and did this...



The two inners will sit around and wait, if I start blowing outers with the lockers I will get RCVs to help. I will hold onto these in case I ever have to do this again...Holding onto old parts sometimes comes in handy.

I would run an empty housing but all I have is the CI housing I still need to ship out the tube and stub axle which I would need for an empty housing...



So that is my alternative and have 5 other shafts waiting to be installed.

 

[4speedfunk]

You should keep a mileage log to see if a 2WD H3 can crack the 20mpg barrier.

 

[jakesz28]

You're gonna replace the crush sleeve with something else....Dean and I talked about it. Don't ask... It's bad ass.

I never run a crush sleeve. If I beat it I set up all pinion gears with a solid spacer and shims. I said to do that over a year ago in another thread on hear.

 

[4speedfunk]

My Jeep buddies take their old crush sleeves...slide em over a deep-well socket...clamp the socket in a vise...and hammer the bulge out of the crush sleeve. This returns it (sort of) to the original length & shape. Then they re-install em and re-torque the pinion accordingly. I must say...of all the redneck, retarded, stupid things to do...this one takes the cake!

Ironically...none of these guys has ever had a failure due to re-using a crush sleeve.

Not me. For $4.00....I'll buy a new one!

 

[06 H3]

I've seen crush sleeves go for $1! Lol but those dollars add up...

After disassembling the whole diff it doesn't seem too bad to install it and put it all back together. Next one I'm going to try myself. I did the locker install and that wasn't bad...

I'm interesting in what Dean has in store, I am shipping it out tomorrow and ill hopefully have the locker from Zach soon.

 

[jakesz28]

I have seen many pinion gears break because the pinion is allowed to climb away from the ring gear. This is why the 9" ford and 14 bolts have a bearing on the other side of the pinion. The crush sleeve only has to compress a little to throw the backlash out.
I'm a drag racer what I have learned in other areas of wrenching I use to attempt to make things last as long as possible. If a 9" ford can gain strength with a solid spacer and shims when it has the added pinion bearing. That's enough for me to not use a crush sleave on other axles for an attempt to add strength.

 

[bebe]

That's exactly the plan - but I think you knew that LOL

 

[06 H3]

Everything was shipped out yesterday, should be there tomorrow. Zach is shipping the locker out today. One step closer to being fully locked up

 

[06 H3]

alright bebe, everything is there. When its done throw the axle in the baby hummer and christen it on the rubicon then ship it back.

 

[bebe]

LOL I'll probably see Dean on Saturday at the races...we'll see what we can cook up

 

[05Mudiak]

Id go with ARB if the price was similar....normally they would be close in price and Id upgrade to ARB but I have a deal on an OEM eaton locker up front. I could buy 3 eatons for one arb at the price I'm getting it at.

So for R&P every solid axle guy runs Yukon or G2 or other name brands without issue why is the OEM one recommended for us?? I would have thought the aftermarket ones are stronger in this application

I need one of these discounted eatons please

 

[Medic_Morgan]

I'd like one too!


Sent from my secret lair bwaaahhahahahah

 

[4speedfunk]

Yeah if you got a line on discount Eaton E-lockers....I'll take (3) of em.

Dana 44-3.92 & up offset...Part#19747-010

I want the new 4-pinion ones. They are allegedly being released around Thanksgiving...not sure if its a new part number or not.

 

[06 H3]

how was the race? did you see dean? :corn:

 

[06 H3]

You are relying on just the bearing race to hold your wheel on. A good friend of mine did not listen and drove to work and got about half way there and lost his wheel. Ill see if I can get pics of the bearing apart so you can see what little bit of material is holding your wheel on... The cv stub has a bearing surface that the bearing rides on and the nut keeps everything preloaded to the right torque.

Don't forget to run the stubs of your cv shafts still bolted in your wheel bearings. If you don't you will be loosing a wheel trying to drive in 2wd

I need one of these discounted eatons please

I'd like one too!


Sent from my secret lair bwaaahhahahahah

PM Zach, I would only run a front locker with a CI housing...not the aluminum one.