Ring and Pinion help

[06 H3]

What do I go with?

I can get OEMs for the higher price, Yukons for less or USA Standard gear for the cheapest. Is there a difference or is it all mental when it comes to strength?

Keep in mind the second I get them I am shipping them straight to get cyro treated...Bebe, Whats the place you use or recommend?

contemplating a locker or not in the CI case I have sitting around, a part of me says do it while its apart another part of me says **** it, be cheap and cut all of it out over summer. I think I will be taking the grinder to it anyways...Just deciding if I should throw the locker in for the next 10 months I have with my trusty little AAM-7.

http://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/Parts...&Side=Front&DriveType=4WD&DiffID=290&CatID=35

 

[4speedfunk]

I'm sure cryo treating will strengthen the R&P but, I doubt if "tooth strength" is the real issue. Most likely its deflection of the housing, and it doesn't matter what you do to the ring & pinion. If the housing continues to deflect enough to allow a mis-alignment between the R&P...you'll keep spitting teeth (cryo or not). Regardless, if the cost is minimal...I'm sure it couldn't hurt. After-all you really don't have many options to beef up the AAM-7, and anything you can do to help is probably a good idea. You should send the stub shaft out for hardening too.

Too bad you can't cryo treat the housing! -LOL

 

[06 H3]

I saw on facebook someone made a diff cover with bolts that go into the housing and push onto the bearing caps. The theory is that helps with deflection. I'm stuck here only because I question how much effort, time and money to dump into this....If all goes according to plan I have about 10-11 months till I start chopping away. Figure I normally do 1-2 trips a month plus a week in Moab I guess that I will have 12-17 trails I will tackle until summer and want to avoid wrenching on it again. So I may just try to beef it up as much as possible and start ordering parts for the next project on squeaky

 

[Reloader]

I had a Chevy S 10 blazer years ago with a 350 v8 and 35" tires that I couldn't keep from breaking pinion teeth in the rear end until I went back to an OE GM gear set. Cost twice as much as the Richmond sets I was using but it didn't break again.
I've installed many sets of the Yukons from Randy's Ring and Pinion and cant remember any failures of them. They set up easily with very little variation in backlash around the ring gear. Maybe 1 or 2 out of dozens required a pinion depth adjustment to get in spec. Granted these were installed in daily drivers and not subjected to what we do with our trucks. Quiet running gear sets too.

 

[atvspeed4]

Why can you not have the cast steel housing cryo treated?

 

[06 H3]

opinions wanted: Do I lock it while I am at it? I cant decide a part of me says yes a part of me says no...use that money towards a SAS. Another part of me says lock it because it will be a year till I start cutting off. And who knows if I will be chopping by then. what do you guys think?

 

[poncho1965]

If I blow my diff I plan on going CI with locker. If it never breaks, I'll stay unlocked I guess it's not a mod I would go out of my way to do really.


Mike

 

[bebe]

I had a Chevy S 10 blazer years ago with a 350 v8 and 35" tires that I couldn't keep from breaking pinion teeth in the rear end until I went back to an OE GM gear set. Cost twice as much as the Richmond sets I was using but it didn't break again.
I've installed many sets of the Yukons from Randy's Ring and Pinion and cant remember any failures of them. They set up easily with very little variation in backlash around the ring gear. Maybe 1 or 2 out of dozens required a pinion depth adjustment to get in spec. Granted these were installed in daily drivers and not subjected to what we do with our trucks. Quiet running gear sets too.

Randy's Ring and Pinion is where I would go first, and then call Jay at West Coast Differential (also a Yukon Dealer). If you want a discount go to the vendor threads on PBB and get a quote via PM.

Shop around and don't let them get you with a hummer tax.

I would go ahead and get a locker for it. I have a switch panel for both front and rear I didn't use if you want. And if ARB still makes theirs for for the AAM760, I would get that for sure. It will make it easier to sell down the road.

 

[bebe]

Why can you not have the cast steel housing cryo treated?

For most folks, it's not about if, it's about where and how much to ship that puppy to a place that can. I would have the ring and pinion done too.

 

[Zach]

I have a switch panel for both front and rear I didn't use if you want.

You haven't seen how he has his rear locker switch have you? :giggle:

 

[06 H3]

Hahaha legit wiring....don't be jealous

 

[06 H3]

Id go with ARB if the price was similar....normally they would be close in price and Id upgrade to ARB but I have a deal on an OEM eaton locker up front. I could buy 3 eatons for one arb at the price I'm getting it at.

So for R&P every solid axle guy runs Yukon or G2 or other name brands without issue why is the OEM one recommended for us?? I would have thought the aftermarket ones are stronger in this application

 

[bebe]

Yukon makes a selectable - but not for an H3

 

[bebe]

Just got off the phone with Dean. His company Performance Cryogenics built my H3 axles. He said he's about it in CA. I told him you would call him in the next couple of days. 916.434.6478

He's a good friend, make sure you tell him you're "Bebe's friend Chris". I gave him your name. He'll walk you though everything as far as how much to strip it down, what to leave on it....oh and don't clean it up before you ship it. Just wipe it down with a rag and no cleaners.

$100-150.00 for the cryo - $250.00 for the R&P set up if you want him to do it. May as well if he's going to have the R&P cryo'd too. Get as much in one batch as you can...it's the same.

I don't remember if there is a crush sleeve in the front, but if there is, he has an idea to keep that pinion from walking up the gear. Also, he knows to set the backlash at the lower end if you wheel hard.

Good luck!!! Trendsetter

http://www.performancecryogenics.com/

 

[06 H3]

Thank you!!! You can hit the thanks button 3 times? Lol I will call him tomorrow.

 

[06 H3]

So the diff is out...Now I am a 2wd hummer.

I am actually very excited to cyro treat the front end. I think it will be a good test for everyone who doesnt want to go to a solid axle up front or the custom IFS. It should offer more strength and dont worry I promise to beat the living **** out of it lol. We shall see how it does.

 

[atvspeed4]

Don't forget to run the stubs of your cv shafts still bolted in your wheel bearings. If you don't you will be loosing a wheel trying to drive in 2wd

 

[06 H3]

I will? I've driven like this last time I blew a diff with no issues and so have others.

Bebe when you drove in 2wd mode did you have the stubs in?

 

[06 H3]

O and I forgot to mention I did inspect all my ball joints and the hubs. Surprisingly everything is in great shape. All the balljoints feel tight it's just one has a bad boot

 

[atvspeed4]

I will? I've driven like this last time I blew a diff with no issues and so have others.

Bebe when you drove in 2wd mode did you have the stubs in?

You are relying on just the bearing race to hold your wheel on. A good friend of mine did not listen and drove to work and got about half way there and lost his wheel. Ill see if I can get pics of the bearing apart so you can see what little bit of material is holding your wheel on... The cv stub has a bearing surface that the bearing rides on and the nut keeps everything preloaded to the right torque.

 

[06 H3]

So I should take the cv stub off the rest of the shaft?

 

[06 H3]

Just got off the phone with Dean. He's very cool! I'm gong to disassemble the axle ship all the parts I'm reusing out with the CI case and locker. He's gonna track down some gears using jay at west coast diff cryo everything in that damn AAM7...I'm very excited to we how this goes. It may become a very feasible to have a somewhat reliable front end with this and a steering rack upgrade.

 

[bebe]

Sweet - I'll see if I can run up and take pics and visit with it while it's there being treated

 

[bebe]

You are relying on just the bearing race to hold your wheel on. A good friend of mine did not listen and drove to work and got about half way there and lost his wheel. Ill see if I can get pics of the bearing apart so you can see what little bit of material is holding your wheel on... The cv stub has a bearing surface that the bearing rides on and the nut keeps everything preloaded to the right torque.

Was it an H3?

I put 700 miles on mine - but we did eventually gut the diff and put the axles back in and I then drove another 4K until I started my front end project.


Chris, take the ring gear out, leave the pinon in, take the drive line off and over fill the diff to keep the axle bearings oiled. You'll be good to go.


PS when you pull the ring gear bolts, it's the opposite of lefty loosey...it's righty loosey.

 

[06 H3]

yep, I learned the hard way when I installed my rear locker 2 years ago, I couldnt understand why all the ring bear bolts sheared off. :gaah:

So the diff is gutted. Bebe I need to ship off everything hes going to set the backlash because I dont have the dial indicator...I need to call him, he was going to set the backlash to .005

The recommended spec is .003-.010 but .005-.007 is preferred. Shouldnt we go to the lower end at .003? From what I was told that will help with deflection.

http://schwarttzy.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Hummer-H3-Front-Drive-Axle.pdf

Noticed something too...On the top end of the case there were no cracks.

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On the bottom end there were these little cracks, did the case stretch?

[URL=http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/SqueakyH3/media/IMG_3396_zps24b40bda.jpg.html]