backcountryislife
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 858
- Location
- Dumont, CO
It lowers the "center point" of the shocks to match the lowered axle from the shackles.
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?909-H3-Rear-Flex-Mod&highlight=rear+flex+mod
Not sure how it works with the lift you have, I'd assume you've already got a similar modification to match the lifted rear.
IMO, if I could get a custom one made that positions the shock about 1" lower I'd get more out of it. My shock tops out at full extension, and the other side hits the fenderwell, so allowing more down & less up would be ideal.
It's a simple item, so when I get doors made I might just have him make two of these that are 1" longer to accomplish this. A 1" body lift would also do what I'm looking for on the stuffed side, but will raise COG & not fix the lack of extension (aside from by changing the lever point, if you allow the stuff side up more, you'll lever the extended side down more even with the same shock & mounting point). I'm not sure how much more up travel there is to be had as is, could be willing to go 1' above the plastic, could be able to go 4"... won't know till I remove the plastic or change the mounts.
Pretty simple item to duplicate with some changes... 3 little pieces of metal welded together & a few holes drilled.
One thing I just thought of though, the point where it hits is at the front of the fenderwell, which is the door... so I'm going to pull the rear doors next time & see if I find the top out point. If that eliminates the issue, I might just have to run without rears on the harder stuff for now to avoid the drag.
Btw, next post I'll show how I relocated the swaybar & what I did for the front, I think re-routing the brake line would be a good idea... minor change to the direction where it attaches to the UCA, easy change to eliminate a POSSIBLE future rub issue.
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?909-H3-Rear-Flex-Mod&highlight=rear+flex+mod
Not sure how it works with the lift you have, I'd assume you've already got a similar modification to match the lifted rear.
IMO, if I could get a custom one made that positions the shock about 1" lower I'd get more out of it. My shock tops out at full extension, and the other side hits the fenderwell, so allowing more down & less up would be ideal.
It's a simple item, so when I get doors made I might just have him make two of these that are 1" longer to accomplish this. A 1" body lift would also do what I'm looking for on the stuffed side, but will raise COG & not fix the lack of extension (aside from by changing the lever point, if you allow the stuff side up more, you'll lever the extended side down more even with the same shock & mounting point). I'm not sure how much more up travel there is to be had as is, could be willing to go 1' above the plastic, could be able to go 4"... won't know till I remove the plastic or change the mounts.
Pretty simple item to duplicate with some changes... 3 little pieces of metal welded together & a few holes drilled.
One thing I just thought of though, the point where it hits is at the front of the fenderwell, which is the door... so I'm going to pull the rear doors next time & see if I find the top out point. If that eliminates the issue, I might just have to run without rears on the harder stuff for now to avoid the drag.
Btw, next post I'll show how I relocated the swaybar & what I did for the front, I think re-routing the brake line would be a good idea... minor change to the direction where it attaches to the UCA, easy change to eliminate a POSSIBLE future rub issue.
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