What did you do with your H3 recently? NEW

[Panzer07]

Swapped the rear frame shackle bushings with some polyurethane one from Siberia...let see how they do. The oem sure were a pita to get off...about a 4 hrs job for both sides.

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[RamRod]

Swapped the rear frame shackle bushings with some polyurethane one from Siberia...let see how they do. The oem sure were a pita to get off...about a 4 hrs job for both sides.

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Yikes! I got to do this soon! Been waiting on the Swartzy extended shackles and the leaf spring mounts to do it all at once.... well all the parts are here and it's time to get off my a$$

Any suggestions for taking this on?

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[Panzer07]

Yikes! I got to do this soon! Been waiting on the Swartzy extended shackles and the leaf spring mounts to do it all at once.... well all the parts are here and it's time to get off my a$$

Any suggestions for taking this on?

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A gringer some chisels, and a hammer...the rear side plastic moldures need to come off to make the work easier...i used a ball joint pressed but it prove useless for anything more than to pushing the metal sleeve out and helping me destroy the rubber bushing which made it easier to pop it off...other than that I had to cut some lines in the bushing sleeve as u can see and just hammer the hell out of it till it collapse and came off. I found this https://images.google.com/imgres?im...MPJPxDFP02M:&vet=1&w=900&h=675&source=sh/x/im and I plan on adding a set in 5 years or so when the bushing I just install need replacement those creeper joints seem like a better option the k the plastic ones we have as well they are rebuildable.

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[jphh20]

A gringer some chisels, and a hammer...the rear side plastic moldures need to come off to make the work easier...i used a ball joint pressed but it prove useless for anything more than to pushing the metal sleeve out and helping me destroy the rubber bushing which made it easier to pop it off...other than that I had to cut some lines in the bushing sleeve as u can see and just hammer the hell out of it till it collapse and came off. I found this https://images.google.com/imgres?im...MPJPxDFP02M:&vet=1&w=900&h=675&source=sh/x/im and I plan on adding a set in 5 years or so when the bushing I just install need replacement those creeper joints seem like a better option the k the plastic ones we have as well they are rebuildable.

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I tackle this a couple of months ago and shared a similar method. It's actually not as bad as it looks to remove and pop the new ones in. The design allows moisture to sit within the frame mount and slowly rots the metal sleeve away.

Need Advice: Hummer H3 Rear Shackle Bushing Replacement

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sh...com/forum/showthread.php?t=11948&share_type=t


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[cgalpha08]

Ordered a new set of tires. Cooper MTP 35s. Should have an installed by the end of the week.

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[Ordieh]

Installed BILSTEIN 5100's on Homer and NO, it is NOT necessary to remove the front wheels to get the job done! Once the fronts were collapsed with a thin 1/2 inch strap and the rig jacked up it took less than 30 minutes per shock. Would probably take less time to install OEM's because of the centering cone on the top bushings. It is a bit tricky to get the top bushings centered on the Bilsteins. The rears come strapped and are even easier than the front. Time included using torque wrenches to do it right.

 

[06BlueH3]

Installed BILSTEIN 5100's on Homer and NO, it is NOT necessary to remove the front wheels to get the job done! Once the fronts were collapsed with a thin 1/2 inch strap and the rig jacked up it took less than 30 minutes per shock. Would probably take less time to install OEM's because of the centering cone on the top bushings. It is a bit tricky to get the top bushings centered on the Bilsteins. The rears come strapped and are even easier than the front. Time included using torque wrenches to do it right.

I agree normally. I changed mine a couple weeks ago and the passenger side went well. The drive side not so much. I was holding the top of shock with channel locks and the tip broke off. The nut would not come loose even after I used penetrating oil 3 days in a row. I removed tire and cut cover on shock off and put a pipe wrench on the shaft and then used a 1/2" wrench with a crows foot. As I pulled the shaft finally broke in half under the nut. Then I was able to get it out. After that all went well. Not sure why the nut would not come loose.
Hopefully no one else has this issue.


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[Enter Hummer]

I replaced my steering rack! That was a royal pain in the a$$. Me and my brother worked on that thing for 9 hours, but also threw in a torsion bar crank so im happy

I think my brother is getting annoyed with always doing something to my hummer. I tell him "Well I'll help you when somethings wrong with your truck" and he says "My truck dosen't break, its a Toyota!". I tell him "Well, just keep working on mine lol".

 

[Ghostbuster]

I payed a local shop to install my new shocks. $10 a shock. I feel like I came out pretty good on that deal lol.


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[4speedfunk]

Did an investigative tear down of the rear diff. Suspicions confirmed...

New side/spider gear kit, bearings, crush sleeve and EBC pads coming from Summit Racing.

 

[woodwardsh3]

You think the tooth fairy will come. How did that happen.

 

[4speedfunk]

I honestly don't know when or where it happened. The locker engaged and worked perfectly but, I have been noticing some pinion rattle when cruising at highway speeds. The rattle would shut up on decel and accel but, at a 70 mph cruise it would sing pretty good. I knew it was coming from the rear diff. I thought it was a worn pinion bearing (loose). So I disconnected the rear driveshaft and gave it a feel with my hands. To my surprise, it was not loose at all...but rather stiff and "chunky" feeling. Uh-oh. Then I pulled the magnetic drain plug and saw quite a bit of material stuck to it....another bad sign.

I finally tore it down today and found the tooth missing from the side gear. The truck is an adventure pak with the locker, so this is an Eaton part. I got online and found an entire kit (#29296-00S) that comes with the spider gears, side gears, cross pin, lock bolt, and thrust washers. Its labeled as a "E-locker service kit"....around $120 from all kinds of sources. Unfortunately the retailers all drop ship from Eaton and none of them have it in stock. This means a two-week wait which sucks. Summit is not far from me and I do a lot of business with them, so I figured they would be as good as any place. The pinion bearings are worn...probably from grinding up some of the tooth. The rest of it looks okay, no damage to the gears or (amazingly) the six locker pins. I'm going to do a simple rebuild & on it with some new bearings and slam it back together with a new crush sleeve. I'm replacing the axle seals and brake pads as well. I'm amazed at how fast H3's go thru rear break pads. These have about 10k on them and they are THIN.

All things considered...a cheap & easy fix. If you want to play...you gotta pay!


EDIT: For the record these are USA Gear 5.13s and original factory bearings...50k miles.

 

[Enter Hummer]

I had a little fun with my bad alignment :shifty:


Still leveling the truck.

 

[06 H3]

Did an investigative tear down of the rear diff. Suspicions confirmed...

New side/spider gear kit, bearings, crush sleeve and EBC pads coming from Summit Racing.

I did the same thing to my 10b e locker back in the day

 

[4speedfunk]

Yeah...careful as I am, I must have crash-locked it somewhere along the way.


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[derian06]

done

 

[mjferencak]

done

I need to do my headliner. Years of leaking sunroof have ruined the headliner.

 

[derian06]

I need to do my headliner. Years of leaking sunroof have ruined the headliner.

its a pain... not too hard to pull it off, I would just take some 3m upholstery adhesive and reattach it if its drooping then pain it black with vinyl/carpet paint. would probably look brand new. I wanted mine to be vinyl but I screwed it up so bedliner it was. but it turned out nice so im happy.

 

[awalsh]

Replaced my crossmember bushing with the $21 one off eBay. Wasn't hard dropping the crossmember and burning out the bushing/getting old sleeve out. Hardest part was putting the new bushing in. Had to dremel the hell out of the crossmember and it still took 2 hours to get in. Must be larger diameter then the oem one. Finally got it in by pounding it with a 40lb weight
Drives normally, still hear a grinding / squeaking sound. I believe it's my wheel hubs


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[woodwardsh3]

We did the same thing today, But I have not tried to put the new one in yet, as it was still burning when I came in for the day. And we replaced my new OEM AAM CV joint after 3 weeks the rubber tore within a week . So I put in a cheaper brand 1/2 price. Im going to send the aam cv back. They weren't to friendly when I called about a return.

 

[Panzer07]

Did some flexing...i think I can probably bring down the shock tower about 2 inches for more travel.

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[amrg]

Update on my engine oil warning for the 06 I5:

After my second oil flush the light came back next day. Since we are having extreme weather and the heat index is showing 130* the light comes up now within 5 minutes of cold starting the truck with A/c.
So I Took it back to the mechanic and rechecked the harness and its fine. No noises comeup from the engine so far.
Now the engine is being pullout out to check/replace the oil pump, check the rear crankcase and engine pan for sludge deposits buildup and replace the intake manifold gasket as it shows many leaks ( sludge buildup could be blocking the flow after 100K miles and 6K miles oil change interval)

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[deserth3]

Replaced my crossmember bushing with the $21 one off eBay. Wasn't hard dropping the crossmember and burning out the bushing/getting old sleeve out. Hardest part was putting the new bushing in. Had to dremel the hell out of the crossmember and it still took 2 hours to get in. Must be larger diameter then the oem one. Finally got it in by pounding it with a 40lb weight
Drives normally, still hear a grinding / squeaking sound. I believe it's my wheel hubs


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I plan on using a ball joint press when I get around to out.

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[deserth3]

Update on my engine oil warning for the 06 I5:

After my second oil flush the light came back next day. Since we are having extreme weather and the heat index is showing 130* the light comes up now within 5 minutes of cold starting the truck with A/c.
So I Took it back to the mechanic and rechecked the harness and its fine. No noises comeup from the engine so far.
Now the engine is being pullout out to check/replace the oil pump, check the rear crankcase and engine pan for sludge deposits buildup and replace the intake manifold gasket as it shows many leaks ( sludge buildup could be blocking the flow after 100K miles and 6K miles oil change interval)

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Good luck!!

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[4speedfunk]

Before you tear it apart...try adding a quart of "Risoline". I was very skeptical but, an old timer told me about it. It's an engine treatment that has detergents and special lubes. These break down deposits and allow the oil filter to capture them.

Years ago I had a 200k 5.7 Vortec with a ticking lifter. It was a job I was not looking forward to, and I figured I had nothing to loose by trying the additive. 500 miles later the noise was gone! This stuff does work. I normally don't condone stuff like this but, as a last resort before an expensive tear down...it's worth a shot.


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