V8 oil leak...

[SolidusJ]

Well, after a a good day. I come back home to this...



I popped out that round cover, the flywheel was dry. Only thing I can think of that caused this, I was diving like an Ahole on the highway today. Traffic and just stupid folks on the road had me pushing her pretty hard. It would be sad if my driving caused this...



Side note, I met Andre from the TFL today. I did the, dude I love my ride review. He's a pretty cool guy and we're going to make plans to do a trail run with their Gladiator and my T. Just a caparison kinda thing.

 

[Iwillnc]

I see your problem! It’s that Fram oil filter.

 

[SolidusJ]

I see your problem! It’s that Fram oil filter.

I mean, that's the driest thing right now lol.

 

[Happy Hummer]

Take a look at your back of your valve cover gasket.
Look to see if the breather hose under the resonator is clogged.
Rear mai seal.

 

[alrock]

That's a lot of oil! Though I guess it doesn't take too much to make a big mess. Good luck, I think HH has some good suggestions.

 

[SolidusJ]

Take a look at your back of your valve cover gasket.
Look to see if the breather hose under the resonator is clogged.
Rear mai seal.

From under the truck, I can see the driver side head is a little moist. After a clean up and check of the fly inspection port, that seems where the leak is coming from. I think the plate/o-ring that holds the rear main is leaking.

When you say breather hose, are you referring the PCV that's on top of the valve cover?

That's a lot of oil! Though I guess it doesn't take too much to make a big mess. Good luck, I think HH has some good suggestions.

I lost a half of quart of oil, I just can't believe pushing her at 96mph could have done this. Not even 65k miles put on and the rear main goes?

 

[Traxx]

Really a pain how much work you have to do to replace that one miserable seal. Age, added weight, off road use add up regardless of mileage. I replaced mine on the T at 95k, would lose a quart about every oil change.

 

[alrock]

Really a pain how much work you have to do to replace that one miserable seal. Age, added weight, off road use add up regardless of mileage.

Are you talking on the truck or my body?

 

[Iwillnc]

From under the truck, I can see the driver side head is a little moist. After a clean up and check of the fly inspection port, that seems where the leak is coming from. I think the plate/o-ring that holds the rear main is leaking.

When you say breather hose, are you referring the PCV that's on top of the valve cover?



I lost a half of quart of oil, I just can't believe pushing her at 96mph could have done this. Not even 65k miles put on and the rear main goes?

****, on my H2 I replaced the trans cooler with a large after market cooler. Well one of the ends where the metal pipe was cut and rubber hose started I had put a flare on it and applied two worm clamps.

Good enough right? No, several months later when driving the truck up the mountains it started leaking out and went as far as to get on the rear window. Never fully blew out but just spewed some.

I could never get it to seal until finally I broke down and bought a $30 swagelok fitting. Had to do a little tricky to get them to sell it to my “business” since they refuse to sell to the general public.

Granted after my gear swap it feels like the entire truck is working half as hard to move as it was before with the old gear set. I imagine the pressures on the system aren’t quite as high.


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[SolidusJ]

Ohhh wise and all knowing magic 8 ball, please tell me how bad I pucked up...



All sings point to rear main, good luck loser!

Damn it...

 

[atvspeed4]

Both of my alphas looked the same and they both had issues of the oil pan bolts slightly backing off. I would properly torque them and about 10k miles later they would do the same thing. The gasket seems to slightly leak on both even when they are torqued when driven hard.

 

[Iwillnc]

Damn,

Either the rear main or rear of oil pan.

No consolidation for you but you did just make me feel better about my oil leak, it’s clearly not from the rear main I now realize.

 

[alrock]

I don't have an Alpha, but both of the issues that atv pointed out, Reloader has addressed on his Alpha.

 

[SolidusJ]

Small update, I went to tighten the bolts in the back of the oil pan. Pretty dran loose, but then I noticed the starter area was soaked. It could be that crankshaft sensor is where my leak is. I can live with that rather than the rear main anyday.

 

[JPaul]

The crank sensor was my issue. When I rebuilt the engine I used all new AC Delco sensors. Ended up with a really bad crank sensor, not only did the O-ring harden and start leaking, but the sensor housing also apparently split and started letting oil leak through the internals and got into the connector. The outside of the connector was dry but inside was soaked with oil.

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[SolidusJ]

It's going to be one of those, cleaned the whole area before replacing the sensor.



What do I come back to after a drive?



Waiting on the truck to cool over before dropping the starter.

 

[SolidusJ]

 

[JPaul]

New sensor or the old one? Looks like mine did when the oring hardened.

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[SolidusJ]

New sensor or the old one? Looks like mine did when the oring hardened.

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New sensor, and the old one didn't look half bad. O-ring looked good and there was no oil where the harness connected. I pulled out the new one and cleaned the port, highly doubt that did anything. Reinstalled and tighten the the mount that held it in, added some oil and had it on another drive. Nothing crazy, just to the corner store and back. I'm going to lose my schnikes if it leaks again...

 

[JPaul]

If it does it again I would double check the orings to make sure they didn't get nicked or anything, and make sure that you get a good amount of resistance when inserting the sensor to indicate a tight fit.

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[SolidusJ]

If it does it again I would double check the orings to make sure they didn't get nicked or anything, and make sure that you get a good amount of resistance when inserting the sensor to indicate a tight fit.

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This is such a bull...



I'm not finding anything from gm saying the sensor needs RTV and that post looks good with no cracks.

Wtf?!?!?

 

[JPaul]

It doesn't need RTV, the oring is supposed to provide sufficient sealing, provided it is tight. If the oring does not have a sufficient seal it will leak as oil is splashed on it.

How do the orings feel? They should be pretty pliable and have a tight fit.

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[SolidusJ]

It doesn't need RTV, the oring is supposed to provide sufficient sealing, provided it is tight. If the oring does not have a sufficient seal it will leak as oil is splashed on it.

How do the orings feel? They should be pretty pliable and have a tight fit.

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The new crankshaft sensor's o-ring felt like the OEM one. Which seemed to be fine. I know for a fact it's not the sensor now...

 

[alrock]

Ya know, the I5s are not prone to oil leaks. We could swap your V8 for my I5 and that would solve this issue rather quickly.

 

[SolidusJ]

Ya know, the I5s are not prone to oil leaks. We could swap your V8 for my I5 and that would solve this issue rather quickly.

lol thanks for the offer, I broke down and got a snake cam. The sensor is dry for sure, the rear main "looks" okay. That means nothing when I spray break cleaner inside the bell housing and oil is washed out.

So now this big question, do I do this in my driveway or go to the craft shop on base? I got air tool and can rent a tranny jack, only thing that I see as a massive pain in the a$$ is going to be the top bolts on the trans. That and it won't be fun to turn the flywheel to get to the torque converter bolts.

If I if I go to the craft shop on base, they only give you 3-4 hours to work. Book time on this job is 5 hours, I would rather do it on my driveway and work on my own time than being under a crunch.