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Squeakys transfer case tech

Zach

Mall Crawler
Messages
4,812
Location
So Cal
Chris, I honestly don't know what is wrong with it. It was before my time at work. Found it and ran the number on it and found out what it fit. More than likely if it was just a bad encoder motor on it, it would not have been replaced. Especially under warranty, but we had some shady f******ers before my time
 

MaxPF

AGNTSA
Messages
1,394
Location
The dark side of the globe
Speedy said it's probably a heat sheild where the dual exhaust cuts across and merges into one tail pipe.

I'm looking into the HD bearing (or the same bearing made with a better alloy) - even if I have to have it cryoed, I go through them pretty quickly.

Are you talking about the bearing supporting the slip yoke? If so, is it a bearing or a bushing? If it's a bushing there is little you can do aside from perhaps replacing the slip yoke when you replace the bushing. If it's a bearing, what does it ride on? Is the yoke material itself the inner race, or does it have a press-on inner race? Sorry, I'm not too familiar with H3 drivelines...

im bumping this. I havent opened up my 4:1 yet but will be soon.

On my current one I have a leak from the front output where the front driveshaft bolts to the flange. I noticed that the flange has some front to back movement. is there a seal there that got destroyed or will the leak stop by re tightening the bolt on the output flange? I assume it got loose from driveline vibrations when my driveshaft started to go out

Where is the leak? Is the yoke nut tight (probably around 120ft-lbs or so)? The flange is located axially by the front bearing, which is typically a ball type. Once they get some miles on them they will loosen up and allow some movement.

The leak is probably from the seal. The case is flooded at this level, so any bit of wear on the seal or flange will start weeping. Since the H3 is full-time 4WD it gets much more wear than a part-time case. If the seal is leaking, a new seal should fix it. Check the surface on the flange where the seal rides. If there is ANY grooving or wear, install a Speedi-sleeve.I show a Speedi-Sleeve install in post #118 of my build thread. You will need a decent pair of dial calipers (real metal ones, not cheap plastic ones) to measure the flange for a sleeve. Or, you can look up the seal part number and get the diameter of the flange sealing surface from it's description.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,501
Location
Meridian, ID
Thanks Zach, I guess I should crack it open either way...but it is in 4 lo and 4 hi not sure about 4hi locked yet.

Thanks for the info maxPF. Ill check out the torque on the nut if its not that it's the seal. This just motivates me to get that 4:1 in even quicker
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,501
Location
Meridian, ID
Ran the t case through 4hi unlocked 4hi locked neutral and 4lo all was good! What's the chances it's something not with shifting? I mean everything moves fine and no weird noises. I am just avoiding the possibility of opening the case if I can.
 

cbetts

NERD!!!
Messages
3,188
Location
Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Ran the t case through 4hi unlocked 4hi locked neutral and 4lo all was good! What's the chances it's something not with shifting? I mean everything moves fine and no weird noises. I am just avoiding the possibility of opening the case if I can.

One way to find out . . . put it in! Make sure you at least change the oil though.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,501
Location
Meridian, ID
didnt know I had the encoder motor at the bottom of the crate! Gonna throw that in the case thats been in the 3 for the past 7 years and see if it works. I hope it doesnt work so I can almost guarantee that it was the encoder motor the whole time!

Any specifics on installing an encoder motor? Does it have to be positioned or clocked a certain way when putting it on or just take it off and put on?
 

cbetts

NERD!!!
Messages
3,188
Location
Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
didnt know I had the encoder motor at the bottom of the crate! Gonna throw that in the case thats been in the 3 for the past 7 years and see if it works. I hope it doesnt work so I can almost guarantee that it was the encoder motor the whole time!

Any specifics on installing an encoder motor? Does it have to be positioned or clocked a certain way when putting it on or just take it off and put on?

Looks like it according to this: :link: (page 214)
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Does anybody ever get "transfer case confusion"?

Every once in awhile...my H3 will bind and pop for the first 10-feet, and only at start-up. Once I drive around, its seems to fix itself. It has done this twice, and both times it occurred in 4HI-Street right after start-up...like its confused or something. It does it in both forward and reverse. For the helluvit, I cycled thru all modes and returned to 4HI-Street...haven't had any trouble since. Its not sticking buttons. Its not the front axle (did it both with IFS and SA). No codes. Performs great on & off road. Any ideas?

I'm following this thread closely to try and understand how it works. This issue seems to be electronic related.
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,669
Location
Scottsdale
I assume it was in 4high street beforehand too, and not just from coming off the trail.

Not that I really have an answer but it does sound like it could be related to the encoder. Maybe it was sticking or wasn't getting the right voltage? On an odd note, JR3T had an issue with a dealer service where a loose, extra magnet had stuck inside and prevented him from shifting into 4 low.

Not saying it's the same by any means, just that weird stuff creates weird symptoms
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Yup...4Hi-Street. I pulled-in and parked in a buddy's driveway. An hour later I went to leave, and had to do a 3-point turn to turn around. He was standing outside and we both heard (and I felt it) binding and popping somewhere between my tranny and front axle. Once I rolled 50 feet or so to the street...it had fixed itself. It did it again the following morning...first thing pulling out of my garage. After that I cycled thru the t-case modes and the problem has not re-appeared, (including that crazy trip to Redbird with 08H3). Like all things H3...trying to find an obvious cause is impossible. So I just cross my fingers and hope something doesn't break. When/if it does...I'll deal with it at that time.

FWIW...my front axle and front driveshaft are rock-solid. At first I thought either of these may have been the source. I even checked the lock-outs to make sure one of em hadn't been half-rotated by rubbing on a tree or something. But its all good up front, and for now...all systems are go. I just wondered if anybody else had experienced this, and maybe found that it was the encoder motor getting stuck.

So does the encoder motor receive a signal on start-up?....or only when changing t-case modes via the dash buttons? I'de be curious to know that, since it seems to only happen at start-up.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,501
Location
Meridian, ID
That's weird. I will throw in the "broken t case" encoder motor tomorrow and let you know about any problems I hope it is so I can confirm its an encoder motor so I have a good t case
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,501
Location
Meridian, ID
Tonight Kyle and I started prepping squeaky for Moab. All the skids are off so the real work can start. We did swap encoder motors and it shifted :( it's the t case. Due to time restraints I will probably bring it down to power chevy and have them open it up and check it out then I will install it.

Thanks again for the help Kyle!
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,501
Location
Meridian, ID
4:1 project starts Thursday. Any tips? Is it tough to put in a new one??

Will post the details when I get home and am on the computer but nothing was wrong with it....kinda confused lol
 

Kyle

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,707
Location
Santa Clarita, CA
4:1 project starts Thursday. Any tips? Is it tough to put in a new one??

Will post the details when I get home and am on the computer but nothing was wrong with it....kinda confused lol

i can get you time on the lift, if we start early and work non stop i bet we can be done by 3-4 in the afternoon!
 

speedy

Sir Welds a Lot
Messages
359
Location
Dayton NV. Battle Born!!
4:1 project starts Thursday. Any tips? Is it tough to put in a new one??

Will post the details when I get home and am on the computer but nothing was wrong with it....kinda confused lol


Cake:corn:
Less than an hour on the shop floor

Tip
Drain the old case first.Ask me how i know:gaah:
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,501
Location
Meridian, ID
i can get you time on the lift, if we start early and work non stop i bet we can be done by 3-4 in the afternoon!

what time on thursday you plan to do this? I might be able to come out and help. always love wrenching on vehicles.

Thanks guys! I plan on working on it early. I will pick it up either tomorrow or thursday morning. Probably thursday morning because I have school and work all day tomorrow. I have class thursday night so the plan is start around 10 or 11? Kyle, lift or no lift, Im fine either way.

Cake:corn:
Less than an hour on the shop floor

Tip
Drain the old case first.Ask me how i know:gaah:

LOL, I will drain the case first...Hopefully I can get it done in 2 hrs seeing I am not as "speedy" as you when it comes to wrenching :shifty:

So for the story. Ill start from the beginning so the new readers and even people following from the beginning dont have to back track and reread posts. Still the t case problem is a mystery. It was a 4:1 t case that was warrantied and then Zach gave it to cbetts. Cbetts gave it to me. Cbetts told me the halves wouldnt work as the alpha and I5 have different ends. Seeing I like to tinker he gave it to me instead of him rebuilding it as a spare. Luckily the difference between the halves of an alpha and non alpha was a heat shield that was riveted on so I didnt have to deal with parting out cases and swapping parts with my current one(non 4:1 case.) The heat shield wasnt on when I got it and Cbetts told me when he couldnt get it into 4lo so I assumed it was a shift fork. After going through all the gears, 4hi unlocked, neutral, 4hi locked and 4lo locked everything was well. I did this by checking the amount of times the shafts spun compared to the others for 4lo and check the others for seeing if the case "locked" the shafts together. All was well....HMMMM. Maybe the encoder motor? So I took the encoder motor that came with it and threw it on the current t case to see if that was broken but all was shifting well. So I planned on opening it to do a double check to make sure nothing was wrong but with moab coming close and seeing I never did one before and I like to take my time I decided to take it to the dealer. They took it, opened it up and inspected everything and all was well. Not a single broken t case part. They did say the encoder motor wasnt working, but heres where I am confused. They did say the encoder motor wasnt working but the encoder motor I gave them was the encoder motor that was on squeaky as an original. Its 7 years old and came on the truck and worked flawlessly since day 1. So WTF. I have 2 working encoder motors and a working 4:1 case but they claim it wont work with the encoder motor. So I guess all is well and I can install it thursday and hope for the best. I just hope nothing is wrong seeing my front output flange has play and is leaking and its the 2.64:1. If I get it all installed and working then I officially and finally have completed the "homemade adv. package" by installing the rear locker and 4:1 case.
 

MaxPF

AGNTSA
Messages
1,394
Location
The dark side of the globe
Another tip: be anal about flange surface cleanliness before you apply Ultra Black and stab the new case. Any smidge of oil residue on the sealing surfaces will cause a very annoying leak. I personally use buttloads of acetone and blue towels until they are squeaky clean ;)
 

Expendable

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,025
Location
Burbank, CA
Thanks guys! I plan on working on it early. I will pick it up either tomorrow or thursday morning. Probably thursday morning because I have school and work all day tomorrow. I have class thursday night so the plan is start around 10 or 11? Kyle, lift or no lift, Im fine either way.

I get off work at 6AM and start work back up at 6PM. so 10 or 11 should be fine. gives me enough time to get back down to Burbank with plenty of time. If I do come I will probably bring my Crown Vic out though.
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,669
Location
Scottsdale
Perhaps your encoder motor has one of those fun intermittent problems, like a weak internal connection. Make sure you bring a spare to Moab.
 

Kyle

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,707
Location
Santa Clarita, CA
I get off work at 6AM and start work back up at 6PM. so 10 or 11 should be fine. gives me enough time to get back down to Burbank with plenty of time. If I do come I will probably bring my Crown Vic out though.

hahah darn! i wanted to see the jeeper kids get all bent out of shape when the hummers pulled up! lol
 

Expendable

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,025
Location
Burbank, CA
Where is this happening? I had some good sleep today so I should be good to go for tomorrow.

hahah darn! i wanted to see the jeeper kids get all bent out of shape when the hummers pulled up! lol

well maybe I will bring her then. Just the drive from the Valley up to Santa Clarita is a lot of work for my truck. I mean she climbs it just fine but I don't like to do it too much because jerks don't take kindly to a truck going like 40 up the hill lol.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,501
Location
Meridian, ID
Valencia high school right Kyle? Meet you guys there around 930-10?

Do I need to bring tools? Never done work on a lift this is exciting! Everything for the past few years was done in the driveway...

Expendable need my #? Ill PM you it
 
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