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Squeakys transfer case tech

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,501
Location
Meridian, ID
First off I wanna give a big thank you to Cbetts (craig) for donating the 4:1 transfer case to me. I really appreciate it, the generosity on this forum is always amazing. I also want to thank Zach for the info I received today from him as he had the transfer case first. I was planning on eventually getting a 4:1 but funds would of pushed it back a while. With the help from them I got a 4:1 T case a lot sooner. It is a take out, they dont have much info on it, all we know is that is was from an alpha and IIRC it wont shift out of 4 low.

Ill give some background before I state some of the options I was thinking of...My current Transfer case is the original Transfer case from the factory and is dated 6/03/2005. I am really happy to say that is has lasted the entire time and never gave me issues. Its always has shifted without trouble *knock on wood* Since I have had such luck I was wondering if I should just take the 4:1 gears out and put em in my current one and do a rebuild while I am at it. It has around 100k miles on it and is 7 years old, it probably isnt necessary but I might as well since its out.

So, a question that has probably never been asked before is if a T-case out of an alpha has a different front half of the case then the I5. Zach mentioned that may be possible but we arent 100% sure, does anyone know?

Also, how tough is it to work on T-cases? Any special tools? The most comparable thing that I have worked on is probably the rear axle when I did the locker install. Is it about the same toughness or easier or harder?

My options are

1. Rebuild and fix the 4:1 case and keep the current one as a spare.
2. Take out the 4:1 gears and put em in the current one
3. Take out the 4:1 gears and put em in the current one with a rebuild

and
A. I do the rebuild
B. Ship it out to the Tcase guy in Oakland

Lets say the alpha has no difference with the front half of the case, my biggest concern is that it has had issues in the past and I am worried it may in the future. Not sure if that is a common thing.

This should be fun :cheers:

41C9D6D9-2756-4344-BA95-F46D68B9BD5C-16542-00000E361A2EE840.jpg
 

Zach

Mall Crawler
Messages
4,812
Location
So Cal
Damn! I've seen that before. Like I said, the case half is different. You WILL need another one non Alpha. Pm reaper as he seems to be the current tcase specialist on the forum.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,501
Location
Meridian, ID
Zach, I didnt know you were sure of that lol. Seeing thats the case Alex's option is probably best.

I didnt know they were producing alpha parts at this point.

E9FD6AA8-DFC9-4F52-9938-78D0236DB320-16582-00000E39F7DFF42E.jpg


I am wondering how I can avoid added down time especially if I need to pull the whole case out and doing some swapping.
 

Expendable

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,025
Location
Burbank, CA
I would think getting a non Alpha TCase would be your best bet so you can use Squeaky in the mean time. rebuild one good case from your two cases. sell remaining parts and or keep for spares. then swap the TCases. keep your original as a backup (if you think it should be rebuilt, do it in case you need to use it as a spare.)

That's how I would go about it.
 

bebe

Moderator
Messages
1,375
Location
Dayton, NV
Zach, I have a question:

What is different about the Case Half on the Alpha? Gears? VSS? Output? Seals?

My current T-case in the Bebemonster has a 10/07 build date, and the minime has a 12/07 build date. I don't think they are different, if they are I don't understand why they would be - the Alphas are still a 4494, right?
 
Last edited:

reaper

Well-Known Member
Messages
527
Location
Denver, Colorado
Do it yourself!!! It's pretty simple... you just need to be precise in putting it back together. If you can do a spring-over, you can rebuild a tcase. It's only a few hours if you don't have to order parts and everything just works.

The parts that are interchangeable: the shift cam, shift fork, case, the chain, the front output shaft. The rear output shaft, ring gear, 4/low assembly are unique.

Special tools: You can make a case spreader with a bolt, washers, 2 nuts with a ratcheting wrench. The bit that fits the case screws I got from a brake caliper bit set at O'Reilly, and there's a 30-something socket (I think its 37 mm) that you need as well. No real special tools needed other than those.

The most important thing we learned from doing this a few times: manually operate everything, before putting it together, and then again before putting it onto the truck once it is all together.

Feel free to call if you need help, pictures, tips... you have my #. :)
 

Zach

Mall Crawler
Messages
4,812
Location
So Cal
Zach, I have a question:

What is different about the Case Half on the Alpha? Gears? VSS? Output? Seals?

My current T-case in the Bebemonster has a 10/07 build date, and the minime has a 12/07 build date. I don't think they are different, if they are I don't understand why they would be - the Alphas are still a 4494, right?

In the parts catalog it lists two different rear case halves, Alpha and non Alpha. Not really sure what the difference is between them. VSS, Output, and seals are the same for both. The only thing that I really see different is that the Alpha has a transer case shield attached to the back half. That maybe the only difference.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,501
Location
Meridian, ID
Fly me out there Reaper, I would love to help on the spring over lol.

Bebe, I will take the case out of its crate and do some inspecting for differences. I can also take detailed pictures with a real camera instead of my iPhone if that helps.

To avoid down time I may contact that guy by medic morgan to get a working t case for $250 then swap the gears and IIRC that is a non alpha too. I am in no rush to get it in there, I just wanted to start the thread and get all the facts straight and take my time so its done right and done once. I dont wanna pull this thing out 20 times.
 

bebe

Moderator
Messages
1,375
Location
Dayton, NV
The only thing that I really see different is that the Alpha has a transer case shield attached to the back half. That maybe the only difference.

Do you have a blow out for comparison? Does it look crucial or is it just a piece of tin?

I have 2 t-cases I need to replace rear out put bearings in. While I have it apart, I want to see if I can upgrade the bearing/seal with another HD Timken.

Thanks!!
 

Zach

Mall Crawler
Messages
4,812
Location
So Cal
Do you have a blow out for comparison? Does it look crucial or is it just a piece of tin?

I have 2 t-cases I need to replace rear out put bearings in. While I have it apart, I want to see if I can upgrade the bearing/seal with another HD Timken.

Thanks!!

It doesn't look crucial. Looks like it is just riveted on
 

Zach

Mall Crawler
Messages
4,812
Location
So Cal
So then it's safe to say he does NOT need a case half to make this one work?

From looking at it now, I would say it should work. Originally I told Craig that it would need the rear case half because there is two different part numbers listed for it.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,501
Location
Meridian, ID
Thanks for clarifying Zach.

Bebe lmk if a HD output bearing would work for the rear I'd be interested in that. Any beefing up available I wanna do

Reaper I'd need a welder grinder and some basic tools I would love to help...especially now that I've been practicing on overhead welding and welding on frames and axles
 

bebe

Moderator
Messages
1,375
Location
Dayton, NV
Speedy said it's probably a heat sheild where the dual exhaust cuts across and merges into one tail pipe.

I'm looking into the HD bearing (or the same bearing made with a better alloy) - even if I have to have it cryoed, I go through them pretty quickly.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,501
Location
Meridian, ID
alright, keep me posted. I want to upgrade mine too. Why are you going through them quickly?

Thanks for the clarification guys, seeing I can use this entire case I may just go ahead and rebuild it. Is there some kind of rebuild kit I can buy?
 

Steve #1

Well-Known Member
Messages
534
Location
TEXAS
If anyone finds another 4494 laying around I'll take it. I noticed this weekend that mine (4493) is making the same clicking sound that got the original replaced a few years ago. I'm out of warranty as of a few months ago. I may need some spare 4493 parts if you end up with some.
 

f5moab

Mr. Beretta
Messages
1,997
Location
In hiding.....
Speedy said it's probably a heat sheild where the dual exhaust cuts across and merges into one tail pipe.

I'm looking into the HD bearing (or the same bearing made with a better alloy) - even if I have to have it cryoed, I go through them pretty quickly.

From the back of my old decrepit mind, I believe Sir Speedy is correct. It is riveted in place to the rear tail and that is the only difference.

If someone needs the disassemble/assemble procedures let me know (via PM) I may not return to this thread again.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,501
Location
Meridian, ID
im bumping this. I havent opened up my 4:1 yet but will be soon.

On my current one I have a leak from the front output where the front driveshaft bolts to the flange. I noticed that the flange has some front to back movement. is there a seal there that got destroyed or will the leak stop by re tightening the bolt on the output flange? I assume it got loose from driveline vibrations when my driveshaft started to go out
 

3Hummers

Super Moderator
Staff member
Messages
10,529
Location
Central Texas
Thanks for clarifying Zach.

Bebe lmk if a HD output bearing would work for the rear I'd be interested in that. Any beefing up available I wanna do

Reaper I'd need a welder grinder and some basic tools I would love to help...especially now that I've been practicing on overhead welding and welding on frames and axles

Land he would need some chocks for the tires. :)
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,501
Location
Meridian, ID
I remember when I picked it up Craig mentioned he couldnt get it into 4 lo. I think I got it into 4 low. I took a pair of vice grip pliers and started turning the little shaft that the encoder motor turns...

B3AF2613-74A7-4A27-8F2A-17A4554CC448-5644-0000054890C35EA8_zps53a71581.jpg


FBB88418-DE1B-4E33-8DBB-22BE0D55D3F8-5644-000005488B80538F_zps368612c3.jpg


Ignore the red on the bottom of the case, its just blood from my finger, I always draw blood on any project lol

As I hear it pop into 4lo. I turn the front output flange.

This one
F66A3462-8762-4CA2-AE2A-4A150AC2C7C3-5644-00000548958375AD_zps6f9097c0.jpg


Then I start turning the front driveshaft flange and I notice the shaft that goes into the transmission turned 4 times to the one turn of the front flange. I assume it means its in 4 lo?

With that said I can continue to play around with it but I am starting to wonder if nothing is wrong with this case! Did it get replaced under warranty but only having the encoder motor broken? Idk maybe zach remembers the history of this case?

I have a video but its uploading....
 
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