Rear soa pic request

[RamRod]

I almost placed my order for the parts this morning... but I had to hold back.. looking at my schedule it wont get done until the fall anyway so i better wait!

 

[954paulo]

Look what I got

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[SolidusJ]

What hangers did you get?

 

[Bigunit]

954paulo,
Part numbers please!

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[SolidusJ]

Look what I got

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I've been wondering what the small metal plate that comes with the hangers meant for?


Just order my Bilstein's and still need to know the hanger plus new shackle bolts.

 

[954paulo]

Probably get welded at the base of the hanger for more strength. Like start at the base and fills up some of the open space on the hanger


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[4speedfunk]

Those plates do get welded to the base of the spring hangers...they add some support to them.

The three holes in the perches is a great idea, and they are there for you to make a wheel-base adjustment if needed. As you lift the frame up higher from the axle...the axle housing will shift forward from where it is now. You'll be adding around 5" of lift, and this can cause your rear axle to shift forward slightly (around 1" to 2"). When you drop it down off the jack, and put the weight of the vehicle on the suspension...you may notice that the gaps between the tire and the fender (when viewed from the side), will be larger on the rear of the tire, and smaller on the front of the tire. On the H3...its not very noticeable but, it is worth mentioning and you can correct this by un-bolting the U-bolts and re-positioning the leaf spring center pins into one of the other holes in the perches. Jeep ZJs, WJs, and XJs are all very prone to this problem when you add lift to them. Here's a photo that shows what I'm talking about...

As you can see...its real obvious on the Jeeps because they have itty-bitty wheel openings (and ZJs & WJs have 4-link rears). With 35"s you might not have an issue but, if you ever want to install bigger tires...they could possibly rub the front of the H3's wheel-well. So...check the gaps when you're done, and adjust the axle position accordingly. (that way people won't think you're a hack!). -LOL

In the end, I had to shift my axle rearward (to the front hole on the perch). This minor change was all it took to re-center tire in the wheel-well. Make sure to check your driveshaft yoke before and after your SOA, as moving the axle rearward will pull the yoke out another inch from where it normally sits. The H3 has a HUGE slip yoke on the rear driveshaft...probably 10" long or so, and I think most H3s are fine. But, I actually got a new driveshaft built that is 1.5" longer than stock, just for this reason. I was worried that driving around with the yoke pulled out 2" or 3" from stock, might tend to woller-out the tailshaft bushing and seal. Not sure if that could happen but, I didn't want to take any chances.

still need to know the hanger plus new shackle bolts

Measuring Tape

 

[4speedfunk]

BTW...there's that double photo attachement issue again. Anybody know what causes this?

 

[SolidusJ]

Those plates do get welded to the base of the spring hangers...they add some support to them.

The three holes in the perches is a great idea, and they are there for you to make a wheel-base adjustment if needed. As you lift the frame up higher from the axle...the axle housing will shift forward from where it is now. You'll be adding around 5" of lift, and this can cause your rear axle to shift forward slightly (around 1" to 2"). When you drop it down off the jack, and put the weight of the vehicle on the suspension...you may notice that the gaps between the tire and the fender (when viewed from the side), will be larger on the rear of the tire, and smaller on the front of the tire. On the H3...its not very noticeable but, it is worth mentioning and you can correct this by un-bolting the U-bolts and re-positioning the leaf spring center pins into one of the other holes in the perches. Jeep ZJs, WJs, and XJs are all very prone to this problem when you add lift to them. Here's a photo that shows what I'm talking about...

As you can see...its real obvious on the Jeeps because they have itty-bitty wheel openings (and ZJs & WJs have 4-link rears). With 35"s you might not have an issue but, if you ever want to install bigger tires...they could possibly rub the front of the H3's wheel-well. So...check the gaps when you're done, and adjust the axle position accordingly. (that way people won't think you're a hack!). -LOL

In the end, I had to shift my axle rearward (to the front hole on the perch). This minor change was all it took to re-center tire in the wheel-well. Make sure to check your driveshaft yoke before and after your SOA, as moving the axle rearward will pull the yoke out another inch from where it normally sits. The H3 has a HUGE slip yoke on the rear driveshaft...probably 10" long or so, and I think most H3s are fine. But, I actually got a new driveshaft built that is 1.5" longer than stock, just for this reason. I was worried that driving around with the yoke pulled out 2" or 3" from stock, might tend to woller-out the tailshaft bushing and seal. Not sure if that could happen but, I didn't want to take any chances.


Measuring Tape

Great info :thumbs:. By chance you know that hangers bolts size and length I want to buy the SOA today.

 

[SolidusJ]

Probably get welded at the base of the hanger for more strength. Like start at the base and fills up some of the open space on the hanger


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Witch hangers are for the 2.5 leafs???

 

[954paulo]

The 14bolt kit is what you want. I think it 2.75 hanger works for our truck. Got a quote from a local shop- $800.00 for the rear swap. Ahhhh. So I'm doing it myself just like I planed


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[TAPDH3T]

The 14bolt kit is what you want. I think it 2.75 hanger works for our truck. Got a quote from a local shop- $800.00 for the rear swap. Ahhhh. So I'm doing it myself just like I planed


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$800???? I hope u laughed in there face as u walked out the door lmao..

 

[954paulo]

I honestly heard him say 800 and before he finished the sentence I opened the truck door and jump in and started to leave. I didn't say a word. I just left mid conversation


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[TAPDH3T]

I honestly heard him say 800 and before he finished the sentence I opened the truck door and jump in and started to leave. I didn't say a word. I just left mid conversation


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Haaaa priceless

 

[RamRod]

A local shop told me $300 to install if I bring all the parts!


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[954paulo]

That 800 included me bringing the parts


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[SolidusJ]

The 14bolt kit is what you want. I think it 2.75 hanger works for our truck. Got a quote from a local shop- $800.00 for the rear swap. Ahhhh. So I'm doing it myself just like I planed


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So 2.75 hanger is the one we need. OK this is the one right.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/FJ60-HANG.html

 

[SolidusJ]

So 5/8" and length is 4.5 correct?




http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/B58x45.html

 

[SolidusJ]

Anything?

 

[RamRod]

Your wanting the rear shackle size? I thought you keep it the same?
That bolt you have there is a metric one. I just replaced one for $8 at the dealer


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[06 H3]

You dont need bolts, you dont need anything except this.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com...de=25-PERCH&Category_Code=springperchantiwrap

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com...f&Product_Code=25GM-UPLT&Category_Code=ubolts

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com..._Code=SBRKT-3&Category_Code=shockbracketstabs

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/3-HANG.html

And for U bolts you can either use these

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/UB375.html

OR

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/UB3625.html

 

[954paulo]

So 165 is a bit much for brake lines. The fittings are universal right? Persay..So some jk 6" lift if the measurements are good should fit


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[SolidusJ]

I'm not dropping my fuel tank for one bolt so I'm going to cut the head of the bolt with a saw zaw and pull it out. I'm going to need a new leaf spring bolt.

 

[SolidusJ]

Your wanting the rear shackle size? I thought you keep it the same?
That bolt you have there is a metric one. I just replaced one for $8 at the dealer


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So what's the size I need.

 

[4speedfunk]

Yeah I did the same trick with the drivers-side front bolt. Stick a saw-zall up there and buzz it in half. For some reason...GM installs the bolt from the inside-out on the assembly line...then installs the fuel tank on top of it. This blocks the bolt and keeps it from any future removal (unless you drop the tank). Install the new bolt in the opposite direction, then you can work on the springs without dropping the tank.