I run Fox 2.0 with remote reservoirs on mine. Its highly modded and I'm sure none of my specs would matter to a stock H3...but, I can say the Fox's are the best shocks I've ever owned. I had to play around with valving but, eventually found the sweet spot.
For the best performance, forget trying to find a "H3 Specific" shock. Instead just measure your mounts at full-compression and full-droop, and find a shock that suits your rig. Remember that static ride height is where you will spend 99% of your time, and you need to account for that in your selection. Make sure you leave plenty of exposed shaft...more than the bump distance. Then decide on the type of connection you want...eye, t-bar, or stud (top and bottom). Then plug-in the vehicle weight. Then try em out. After that you can tune the shock to suit your particular rig. Its a bunch of steps but the result is way better than just asking for over-the-counter "H3 Shocks". Also, IMO...the stock H3 suspension does not have enough travel to mess with reservoir shocks. The amount of fluid displaced is not enough to warrant a separate chamber.
Most shock guys know...stud-type shocks are a PITA because the stud wants to rotate when you try to remove them. T-bar type shocks are also a PITA because sometimes the captive nuts want to spin, which usually results in cutting the upper bolts, or trying to get a wrench into the back-side to hold it. That's why the eye/eye rig is preferred. I run eyes top & bottom on the fronts. I run t-bar top and eye bottom on the rears. The eye/eye shock is by far the most common and chassis builders and some factory suspensions use this type. If you find a eye/eye shock to fit your H3...you can then buy a t-bar kit to adapt the top mounting to fit the H3's (and most other GM truck's) t-bar arrangement. You may consider weld-on eye mounts for the upper end of the rear shocks, and that will essentially convert your truck to the more common eye/eye arrangement, and give you more shocks to choose from. On the front, you will probably be forced to stick with the stud-type mounting unless you get tricky with a torch & welder.
