BEC connector (offroad/clearance lights)

[JPaul]

It's from Daystar. I saw it while walking around in 4Wheelparts local store here in Salt Lake. Here it is on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Daystar-KU20040BK-Black-Universal-Firewall/dp/B004K2285E

I got it a bit cheaper from 4Wheelparts though, even with sales tax. I saw it and was like "That is the best firewall grommet EVER!"

 

[lugantom]

lugantom, I think you missed my post 5 posts before yours where I listed out what all the pins break out to (that I could find in the schematics you linked). I also list what other wires are included in the circuits (like the wires that pass through the firewall to the inside of the vehicle). But thank you for your input. I'll have to take a look at the fuse center when I pull it to what is up with fuse 10.

Yep - wish I had seen it before I spent all that time figuring out the pin-outs with a continuity tester!

Where can you buy connectors that fit into that plastic connector? I spent a lot of time bending my own.


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[JPaul]

I have no idea where to get additional contacts for it, I'm waiting on the pigtail connector that I linked previously from Amazon to arrive. Once I get it I can make certain it is what will fit the fuse center plug, and then I can pull out a contact from the plug and see what they are using for it. I bet I can source more from Mouser or Digikey or somewhere.

 

[JPaul]

Got the connector in today, comparing it to the photos Bigunit provided, I am 99% sure this will fit. It has 5 - 12 gauge wires and 3 - 14 gauge wires (pretty sure, might be 16 gauge) so all 8 positions have a wire coming off them. Comes with heat shrink covered butt splice connectors as well, so that's nice. Maybe I'll be able to try and get this hooked up sometime this week, if I'm lucky.

 

[JPaul]

Yep - wish I had seen it before I spent all that time figuring out the pin-outs with a continuity tester!

Where can you buy connectors that fit into that plastic connector? I spent a lot of time bending my own.


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I pulled out one of the contacts and tried to see if I could locate additional ones, but I was not able to find anything. Since you can get that whole connector for $23 or so from Amazon, I'd just buy that and then use it instead. You could just take out the contacts with their wires from the new one and pop them into your existing connector, or vice-versa. You have to pull off the gray clip on the front though, it is to prevent the contacts from coming out accidentally, but it's super easy to unclip. Just pull on the tabs on the side and it'll pop right out, Then use a small screwdriver to push down the clip from the front for the contact you want to remove and pull it out from the back. To put one in, just push it in until it clicks, then clip the gray retainer back on. You have to remove the gray clip even if you're just putting a contact in.

 

[JPaul]

So I finally got around to getting this all tested and hooked up. The connector I bought on Amazon definitely is the right one, and pin 8 is definitely not hooked up to anything. I updated the pinout above with additional notes about what is switched and what is hot at all times. I ended up switching around some of the wires on the connector, the three pins that are hooked to fuse 10 (SPO, switched power)I put the three smaller guage wires on, and moved the larger gauge wires to to other locations. I took a number of pics and will get them up once I can get on my computer and resize them all and up on my imgur account.

I have to say, I think the H3 was supposed to have an option for onboard air, pin 4 is labeled in the schematics and on the fuse box cover as being for an air compressor, but it's not for the secondary air injection pump, that is a completely different circuit. It is listed as having a 25 amp fuse, which would be about right for an average sized OBA setup. It's too bad this never came to fruition, it would've been really nice to have factory OBA available. At least now I have a place to tap into for my compressor when I finally get around to installing it.

 

[JPaul]

Here's the pics:

Labeled the wires:

Some split loom for protection:

Pin 1 marked, pin 5 is below pin 1, numbered right to left when look at the plug head on:

Removed the top of the fuse block, takes some effort but it does come up after you unclip the tabs on the ends:

Here you can see the spot it plugs in (circled in yellow):

Make sure these two plugs are pulled all the way up until they click before you close it back up (do this now before you forget):

The tabs that are right up against the plugs and are circled in yellow are what need to click into place, just pull up on the connector until each end is secured (I used a screwdriver to help get leverage on the end the wires go out from, they like to be stubborn, the other ends are usually already in place or easy to lift up enough):

Routing the wires out was a bit of a challenge, it took me several tries before I figured out how to route them so that it didn't get pinched or keep the top from snapping down in place. I have them going out with the main harness but to the side and underneath it:

Then they are just right there for you to add on to later. I put some heat shrink on the ends of the ones I wasn't using just yet (along with some liquid tape inside the end to seal it up), mostly to protect the wires but also the ones hooked to the SPO circuit will be live when the key is on since I added the fuse for that to use with my backup camera monitor, so not shorting out would be great. The others don't have any fuses in their places, except for pin 1 which is part of the parking lamp circuit and is live when they are on. Be safe and smart!

Here you can see the spot for pin 8 is empty (bottom left of connector), since I determined the schematic is right and it really isn't hooked up to anything, so I removed that wire and left it empty.

And it's all back in place! Tada!!

Now when I want to add other things I'll have a nice factory type setup for them. Super clean and pretty inexpensive, considering the harness pigtail was maybe $30.

 

[Clarke]

That is very interesting - and very helpful!

I have a ARB compressor in the T that I'd love to rewire using the factory harness. Also maybe the CB and HAM radio power through this.

I have an unused factory (roof light?) switch in the center console, and a blank where a second switch could go, I'd love to control LED light bars using this factory switches in combination with this connector. Has anyone matched up the wiring for those factory switches with the ends that I assume are in the engine compartment at a similar level of detail with pictures?

 

[JPaul]

That is very interesting - and very helpful!

I have a ARB compressor in the T that I'd love to rewire using the factory harness. Also maybe the CB and HAM radio power through this.

I have an unused factory (roof light?) switch in the center console, and a blank where a second switch could go, I'd love to control LED light bars using this factory switches in combination with this connector. Has anyone matched up the wiring for those factory switches with the ends that I assume are in the engine compartment at a similar level of detail with pictures?

The blunt cut wires that are used for the factory light switches can be found coming out of the main wiring harness right by the rear right corner of the battery tray, next to the amperage sensor. They will be folded over and taped to the wiring harness if they have not been used yet. There will be two black ground wires that actually just go to that group of ground wires bolted to the fender right above there, and then there will be two other pairs of wires that are capped, those are for the switches. There will be a pair that is Light Green and Brown, and a pair that is Orange and Black with a white stripe. Refer to my first post on page 2 of this thread for details about what switches those wires are originally for. To find where they come into the interior just look under the dash up by the side where that main harness comes in, you'll see the other end of those blunt cut wires taped up to the harness (Light green, Brown, Orange, and Black with white stripe).

Here is some pics of where to find them in the engine bay:

It only looks like there is the green and black with white strip wires there along with the black ground wires, but the wires for each switch are paired together with the heatshrink, you'll see what I'm talking about when you go check in your engine bay.

 

[lugantom]

So here is what I have figured out so far. I used the wiring schematics for a 2008 H3 from Schwarttzy's site and found everything for pins 1-5: http://schwarttzy.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Hummer-H3-Wiring-2008.pdf
I also checked the schematic for the 2006 and found the circuit pins 6 and 7 are connected to. Still no idea what pin 8 hooks to, and I haven't confirmed all of these fully work, though the only one I question is pin 4.

X5 (under fuse center in engine bay, used by factory offroad/clearance lights/etc)

Pin - Wire color - Application - Fuse name - Fuse # - Amperage:
1 (Red) - Clearance lights (Front Park, Fuse 43 - 10A) - Switched with parking lamps
2 (Light Blue) - Grille Lamps Relay coil feed (SPO, Fuse 10 - 10A) - Switched with key on

• other side of circuit is Lt Green that goes to offroad switch (blunt cut in engine bay and under dash?)
• Brown wire from switch to relay and lamps (also a blunt cut wire from engine bay to under dash?)

3 (Red) - Roof mount offroad lights (Roof LP, Fuse 4 - 20A) - Feeds both the relay coil and the lights power, Always hot

• other side of circuit is Black/White that goes to offroad switch (blunt cut in engine bay and under dash?)
• Orange wire from switch to relay and lamps (also a blunt cut wire from engine bay to under dash?)

4 (N/A) - Air Compressor? (AIR CMPRSR, Fuse 11 - 25A) - Always hot
5 (Dark Blue) - Grille lamps power (Grille Guard, Fuse 2 - 20A) - Always hot

• feeds to relay, other side of circuit is brown wire mentioned above

6 (N/A) (SPO, Fuse 10 - 10A) - same circuit as Grille Lamps Relay coil feed, Switched with key on
7 (N/A) (SPO, Fuse 10 - 10A) - same circuit as Grille Lamps Relay coil feed, Switched with key on
8 Not connected

Five years later, I return to this thread! My hand-made BEC adaptation finally failed. My light bar went out last night. After much digging, I remembered how I had wired it, and found this thread. THANKS for providing the amazon part and the pin-out. Proper BEC is on its way, and I have this pin-out diagram to ensure that, in the future, any adds won't fail at the connector five years later!!!