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Ring and Pinion help

06 H3

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,505
Location
Meridian, ID
WTF! I am calling fedex tomorrow to get my money back. They didnt deliver it by the day they said it would be here. It went to fedex on the 23rd now its the 30th...WTF!@@!#!#
 
Zach

Zach

Mall Crawler
Messages
4,812
Location
So Cal
They won't refund you, they will refund the shipper. He needs to be the one to do it and refund you. From up north to you, like I said earlier is two days tops and that's ground. I've sent parts to Az and the have them in two days. A lot longer distance. Really am feeling for you right now Chris.
 
06 H3

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,505
Location
Meridian, ID
I got my diff!!!! I am quite impressed. Holy **** is the backlash tight, which I'm glad about...now the ****er won't chew pinions. I can't wait to see how it feels to be locked up front. After seeing it setup I am pleased with deans work even though it took forever. He said if I blow this one the diff isn't big enough for me as he set this thing up as tight as possible.

Time will tell. Now time to beat the **** out of it
 
poncho1965

poncho1965

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,263
Location
Ridgecrest, California
06 H3 said:
I got my diff!!!! I am quite impressed. Holy **** is the backlash tight, which I'm glad about...now the ****er won't chew pinions. I can't wait to see how it feels to be locked up front. After seeing it setup I am pleased with deans work even though it took forever. He said if I blow this one the diff isn't big enough for me as he set this thing up as tight as possible.

Time will tell. Now time to beat the **** out of it
Click to expand...

So it was worth the wait right??


Mike
 
06 H3

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,505
Location
Meridian, ID
I wanna see it in person. :) I am always will to try. Seeing he struggled on 40s I know I probably won't make it but I am always willing to try
 
4speedfunk

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Holy **** is the backlash tight, which I'm glad about...now the ****er won't chew pinions
Click to expand...

Actually....just the opposite. IMO, too tight is worse than too loose. Ideally, "perfect" is what you want...AAM recomends .005" to .007" for most of their axles (although I could not find the 7.6" among them). Check it in 4 or 5 different spots, to get an average. Its sometimes impossible to get it in the absolute sweet spot so .004" might be acceptable but I would not run it any tighter than this. Given the choice at either end of the range...I would run .008" before I would run .004". Regardless...don't over-think it. Every AAM-7 is on its way out...no matter what.

If you paid good money to a pro to get it rebuilt...then trust the guy. Throw it in there and go wheelin! The worst that can happen is you'll be right back in the same spot next week.
 
06 H3

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,505
Location
Meridian, ID
Why is too tight bad?

I thought the opposite. A loose gear mesh would allow the R&P to walk from each Other under load where as setting it up tight can help prevent that.

AAM specs are .003-.010 with a preferred .005-.007 if it starts at .003 as it wears it will loosen up a bit to preferred spec
 
4speedfunk

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
.005" to .007" allows room for the rotating assembly to grow as it heats up, and it also allows the proper clearance for lube to get in there and do its job. There is always (hopefully) a microscopic cushion of oil between the teeth when it is spinning...getting compressed and flung around. Too tight of a tolerance will generate excessive heat, and the assembly can grow and cut your backlash clearance down to something less than adequate. You'll know immediately (within 1000 miles) if something wasn't right. Look for "bluing" on the teeth and obviously shavings & dust particles, from the teeth being pushed too deeply into each other. Also look for sharp edges on the teeth...a good indication they were too tight. Most of the time people think tighter clearances on machines is better. Most of the time that's true. But on backlash....

Too much clearance is bad.
Too little clearance is very bad.

The problem with running on the slim-side of backlash is this: ZERO is always ZERO. At only .003"...you're real close to .000". It doesn't take much expansion to close-up that small of a space. For this reason I like em on the loose end of the range (.008" to .012"). This keeps things nice & slippery...cool running...minimal drive loss...even after being heated up, there's lots of space for lubrication. Either way...there is a suitable range .003"-.010" and a preferred range of .005" to .007"...and you know em both, so no excuses! Your guy should know them too, and if he says its good...you should take his word. On the other hand you can easily verify it yourself with minimal shop tools. Its super easy and does not require any dis-assembly. All you need is a dial-indicator and a magnetic base...
[video=youtube;CZS6Rc0Omgo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZS6Rc0Omgo[/video]

Do this check on 5 or 6 teeth all the way around the ring gear. They should all be within .002" of each other, and you should arrive at an average somewhere between .003" and .010". If any of your readings drop below .003"...then you have a tight spot, and its worth taking a closer look.

Lastly...I have never heard of the "as it wears it will loosen up a bit to preferred spec" method. Its a ring & pinion...not a fat girl trying on designer jeans!-LOL Its either in range...or not. Period. That's why they give that info to you. Toss that AAM-7 in your truck...run it over to the nearest machine shop and throw a dial on it. Its a five-minute check. Worth it for the piece of mind.
 
06 H3

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,505
Location
Meridian, ID
All true but if these diffs are already flexing more then other diffs shouldn't be be set on the low end of "safe" both times it's a pinion being chipped. Doesn't that imply that under load backlash and contact pattern was thrown out?

My buddy has a backlash gauge ill borrow if from him and get back to you.

Other then generating heat drag will take away more power from the balls less I5. At this point I just don't wanna break another. Hopefully it will last a year or two.

I went to the yard for a pass drop 44 and they didn't have any!
 
MaxPF

MaxPF

AGNTSA
Messages
1,394
Location
The dark side of the globe
06 H3 said:
All true but if these diffs are already flexing more then other diffs shouldn't be be set on the low end of "safe" both times it's a pinion being chipped. Doesn't that imply that under load backlash and contact pattern was thrown out?

My buddy has a backlash gauge ill borrow if from him and get back to you.

Other then generating heat drag will take away more power from the balls less I5. At this point I just don't wanna break another. Hopefully it will last a year or two.

I went to the yard for a pass drop 44 and they didn't have any!
Click to expand...

If you're not hung up on a 44 you can use a 10b instead. They're pretty common, around here anyway. Heck, I have one holding down the concrete behind my shed. It's got 30 spline axles too! (older ones were 28 spline, which is less desirable).
 
06 H3

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,505
Location
Meridian, ID
Diff is assembled and back in putting in halfshafts now locker won't engage...I'm gonna have to mess with it but seeing it looks like the stator was ****ed with I wonder if it was dropped. Getting real tired of this bull****.
 
4speedfunk

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Damn...you can't catch a break. Did u bench test it with the cover off? Should be able to activate it with a 12v source and make sure the coil is functioning.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
06 H3

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,505
Location
Meridian, ID
Bench tested it with the cover off and nothing. I was using a battery jumper box and I knew it wasn't charged up recently so I assumed it didn't have enough juice. So I assembled everything and before I put it in I tested it via the battery and nothing. You know when it gets power you can hear it, I didn't hear anything. I did question the look of the stator when I got it due to the fact that the 4 e lockers I have installed in jeeps and the hummer. the stator had the a piece protruding the top and bottom to avoid it from spinning with the carrier and killing the wiring. Mine doesn't have that, it has a metal piece tack welded to the stator to bolt behind the bearing cap. Looks homemade and the fact that he drilled a hole for the wiring right next to the predrilled hole for the wiring. CI diffs came with 2 holes. One for the locker and a breather. Seeing he would drill an extra hole makes me question what else was done? Like dropping the locker?

Why hasn't he been run off pirate? I have no clue.
 
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