What performance mods you got?

[bebe]

If you do an SOA, don't forget about the brake line and locker wires. Both will need to be longer if doing any kind of lift, including SOA. Also, a SOA will give roughly a 4" lift, which likely puts the static driveline angle at or beyond the acceptable limit for a single-cardan u-joint setup.

I didn't need to modify the Brake lines or the ABS cable until I added a little more than 2 " of lift when we did the Front Upgrade. There is a clip on the frame rail where the ABS wire goes through, all you have to do is grab it with some pliers and rotate it vertically, and then GENTLY pull on the ABS wire until it is taught.

Here is my DL

 

[MaxPF]

That's always the easiest solution. I just haven't dedicated enough time and research, but there has to be a plate with matching splines as H3 output. If OD is too large just have it machined down to match slip yoke/output seal size. If it's too smaller, it's just a matter of finding a smaller ID seal. Problem is finding the time and calling the right people. The goal is to find a reasonably priced solution so more people can do SOA conversions without breaking the bank.


"Ex Umbris Venimus"

Sent from my iPhone

It wouldn't be difficult to build a flange, providing you know what the spline size is. When I said SYE, I was thinking more along the lines of a new custom mainshaft and tailhousing for the t-case, like JB Conversions does with the 241. That way, you eliminate the slip yoke, you shorten the t-case, and the new shaft would use common 32 spline yokes and flanges. All it takes is money :deal:

 

[MaxPF]

I didn't need to modify the Brake lines or the ABS cable until I added a little more than 2 " of lift when we did the Front Upgrade. There is a clip on the frame rail where the ABS wire goes through, all you have to do is grab it with some pliers and rotate it vertically, and then GENTLY pull on the ABS wire until it is taught.

Here is my DL

Is that your front or rear shaft?

 

[bebe]

Rear

 

[bebe]

It wouldn't be difficult to build a flange, providing you know what the spline size is. When I said SYE, I was thinking more along the lines of a new custom mainshaft and tailhousing for the t-case, like JB Conversions does with the 241. That way, you eliminate the slip yoke, you shorten the t-case, and the new shaft would use common 32 spline yokes and flanges. All it takes is money :deal:

This is the one Jess built for my front DL I think he re-drilled a Ford Flange

I call the Double Double

 

[MaxPF]

Rear

Hey Recon, there's your answer. Jess at HAD can hook you up with a slip yoke CV driveshaft

 

[ReconH3]

Hey Recon, there's your answer. Jess at HAD can hook you up with a slip yoke CV driveshaft

Yeah! One less thing to worry about. Thanks!!!!!!


"Ex Umbris Venimus"

Sent from my iPhone

 

[58Bisc]

I have a 3.5 L5 and I run 35's, so I did a few engine mods to try to get some power back. GM touring exhaust, AirDoc's intake, K&N filter, PCMforless tune (performance tune with a trans shift pattern of 3), engine coil spring delete, ported throttle body.

I also did some off road performance upgrades. DayStar 1 inch body lift, cranked the Tbars for a 2 inch front lift, Bilstein front & rear shocks, Trail Duty extended bump stops, General Grabber 315/75/16 tires, GM UCP, PCSpider diff slider, Thor front bumper/bull bar, 12,500 winch. Complete dual battery set up waiting for install. Schwarttzy rock sliders and Hunner shock/spring sliders on order

 

[nelly27281]

tell them both that Bebe sent you.

And tell Jess - bebe sent you.

Reminds me Godfather movie...