• Welcome to H4O! For a reduced ad experience, please login or register with the forum.

What did you do with your H3 recently? NEW

Shotgunchuck

Member
Messages
9
Location
North Zion
IMG_5510.jpgIMG_5500.jpgIMG_5505.jpg
 

SlcHummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
368
Location
Salt Lake City, UT
Took my 2006 H3 with 143k miles to Moab for the first time (driver and vehicle) over Columbus day weekend. It did really good on all the trails, the only off trail repair required was at fault of my own. Gave it a little too much gas over taking a slightly different approach and the vehicle bounced one too many times and bent a tie rod. Luckily I brought a spare so we were able to get my rig back in working order and complete the trail which happened to be the last on day 3 of 3 :).


Here is a list of modifications along with some pictures and future potential upgrades I'd like to make before heading back to Moab next Spring.


Also, big thanks to Schwarttzy for his high quality parts and providing great feed back to a random first time off roader.






Upgrades:
Bilstein 5100 shocks
Torsion adjustment (23.25")
Extended Leaf Spring Shackles
High Clearance Leaf Spring Bolt Plate (Schwarttzy)
Underbody Protection (Schwarttzy) Note: Came in handy as you can see in the pictures below :)
35" Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac's
"Rock Sliders" (NFab)
16mm Moog tie rods (upgraded from 14mm 2006 tie rods)
Daystar 1" body lift
Solid Axle Industries GM Corporate 10 bolt rear differential cover




Future Upgrades:
Steering Rack mount kit
Heavy Duty Tie Rod kit




https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8Pmyiqfu_2fTTBLX3VNWVFsTnM


https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8Pmyiqfu_2fU0EwYzlxOWRuT0U


https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8Pmyiqfu_2fUVpoTE4yM3QwMEU


https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8Pmyiqfu_2fcXZkbWNrQnJ5eE0


https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8Pmyiqfu_2fMU9HQXRKRHhJV2M


https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8Pmyiqfu_2fa0hCZmVRY1ZtTjA


https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8Pmyiqfu_2fQzJWTmtXVUdoMEk


https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8Pmyiqfu_2feU5PWFB0am12TkE


https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8Pmyiqfu_2faWRMbmlPTjRoTDQ


https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8Pmyiqfu_2fOEJxbmxidm5QWnM
 

Bowser-II

Well-Known Member
Messages
270
Location
Hagerstown, Maryland
Took my 2006 H3 with 143k miles to Moab for the first time (driver and vehicle) over Columbus day weekend. It did really good on all the trails, the only off trail repair required was at fault of my own. Gave it a little too much gas over taking a slightly different approach and the vehicle bounced one too many times and bent a tie rod. Luckily I brought a spare so we were able to get my rig back in working order and complete the trail which happened to be the last on day 3 of 3 :).


Here is a list of modifications along with some pictures and future potential upgrades I'd like to make before heading back to Moab next Spring.


Also, big thanks to Schwarttzy for his high quality parts and providing great feed back to a random first time off roader.


Upgrades:
Bilstein 5100 shocks
Torsion adjustment (23.25")
Extended Leaf Spring Shackles
High Clearance Leaf Spring Bolt Plate (Schwarttzy)
Underbody Protection (Schwarttzy) Note: Came in handy as you can see in the pictures below :)
35" Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac's
"Rock Sliders" (NFab)
16mm Moog tie rods (upgraded from 14mm 2006 tie rods)
Daystar 1" body lift
Solid Axle Industries GM Corporate 10 bolt rear differential cover

Future Upgrades:
Steering Rack mount kit
Heavy Duty Tie Rod kit

Good looking truck! I think the slate gray is an excellent color for the H3.

Did you start a build thread?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
Took my 2006 H3 with 143k miles to Moab for the first time (driver and vehicle) over Columbus day weekend. It did really good on all the trails, the only off trail repair required was at fault of my own. Gave it a little too much gas over taking a slightly different approach and the vehicle bounced one too many times and bent a tie rod. Luckily I brought a spare so we were able to get my rig back in working order and complete the trail which happened to be the last on day 3 of 3 :).

Looks like fun. Red D-rings huh? I think I might've seen you on the road once before. Welcome!
 

Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
Finish my motor front end overhauling, steering and water pump, belt tensioner, idle pulley, serpentine belt, fan clutch, and new 240amp alternator...so now the squealing is gone but the battery light on my dash came one I went to the auto store to get check and it read 12 and some volts. So I'm guessing the new alternator is messed up...or should I check fuses first ?.
a25856c61b24844fd453d07562bb23d4.jpg
0532410c07843e14d3a129152f93b8ff.jpg
bf8ba84cca98d79bd264e62d8f2d707e.jpg
6ab0a3ae7177a048f23ac4287721e9a3.jpg


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

amrg

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,317
Location
Qatar
You should be running around 14 volts at idle. Is the alternator under load? Could simply be a voltafe regulator issue?

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 

atvspeed4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,212
Location
massachusetts
I had same issue ended up being a bad mega fuse. Crazy part was I did a resistance test through it and it appeared to be fine but dealer said this happens from time to time and must be tested under load? Swapped fuse out and all good. Did truck die after battery ran out? Mine took about 30 min of driving before battery (yellowtop) fully died lol
 

Bruces

Well-Known Member
Messages
215
Location
Portland, TN
Something I also had to do switching to 240 amp was go with belt that was 1/2 inch shorter. Pulley is smaller on new alternator. Stock belt part number ends in 15. Get same belt but number ends in 10.
 

Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
Something I also had to do switching to 240 amp was go with belt that was 1/2 inch shorter. Pulley is smaller on new alternator. Stock belt part number ends in 15. Get same belt but number ends in 10.

Should I swap pulleys I did noticed that the pulley in the new alternator was smaller.

I had same issue ended up being a bad mega fuse. Crazy part was I did a resistance test through it and it appeared to be fine but dealer said this happens from time to time and must be tested under load? Swapped fuse out and all good. Did truck die after battery ran out? Mine took about 30 min of driving before battery (yellowtop) fully died lol

The guys at the auto shop I went to tested it read around 12.50 volt at Idle my battery hasn't die yet and I drove the truck yesterday for a while with the ac and stereo going. What's the mega fuse is it like in the fuse box and one of the big black ones ?.

You should be running around 14 volts at idle. Is the alternator under load? Could simply be a voltafe regulator issue?

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk



Grounding issue?

I saw the guys test the alternator where I bought since I had to take it back since it had a different connection, and in their testing it read around 14.50 volts


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

amrg

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,317
Location
Qatar
If you are dropping that much voltage to the battery it could be a wiring issue.
Did you upgrade the wiring (big 3) to handle the extra amps?

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
If you are dropping that much voltage to the battery it could be a wiring issue.
Did you upgrade the wiring (big 3) to handle the extra amps?

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Wiring, fuse or belt tension, one of the three
 

Bruces

Well-Known Member
Messages
215
Location
Portland, TN
You definitely need the shorter belt. I wouldn’t swap pulleys. Also you have to go 4 wag or better from the alternator to mega fuse. While you are at it finish the big three with another ground to chassis and hot to starter. I was going to do big 4 but couldn’t figure a way to add ground from back of alternator to chassis. Check engine ground to chassis also. Clean all grounds.

btw mine does 15.2 for about 30 seconds the gradually drops to 14.2 and stays there at 2000 rpm
 
Last edited:

Bruces

Well-Known Member
Messages
215
Location
Portland, TN
Wait. Did you change connector or have shop put in correct regulator? Mine had wrong regulator and I tried different connector and computer did not recognize the alternator. After correct regulator was installed it charged correctly. Very specific regulator for h3
 

Chris Laun

Well-Known Member
Messages
78
Location
Los Angeles, CA
My water pump seems to be finally going bad at 144k miles, so even though I was tempted to go ahead and convert to an electric water pump and fan setup, the AC Delco pump should work just fine for now. Also, towed my parents 26' boat like a champ a few weeks ago:thumbs:
Screen Shot 2017-11-11 at 1.35.19 PM.jpg
 
Last edited:

Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
Wait. Did you change connector or have shop put in correct regulator? Mine had wrong regulator and I tried different connector and computer did not recognize the alternator. After correct regulator was installed it charged correctly. Very specific regulator for h3

I think I probably have a wrong corrector...im installing my oem alternator tomorrow and running the truck for some hrs...to recharge my Battery the oem alternator was fine I just wanted something with more kick for the winch.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Bruces

Well-Known Member
Messages
215
Location
Portland, TN
Alternator

If the alternator takes a different connector then I can assure you the regulator is the issue. I found that no matter what I tried the computer on the h3 would not recognize the alternator until I had a local shop put the right regulator in it. Like I said earlier the 3 expects a specific regulator and won’t see anything else. This is the regulator that came in new alternator. Replacing the plug end won’t help even though the wires are the same.
B3F16CAF-71FE-45E9-B9DB-5CE7871A4EB7.jpeg
This is stock. If you take the 240 to a alternator shop and ask them to verify the regulator will work for your application they can show you online where the internal signal components are different for the H3 regulator. Parts and labor to switch regulators was about $75 for me.
3BBBD8D1-66E5-49FC-9858-0E0488F3301D.jpeg
Your situation sounds identical to mine. I was upgrading getting ready for dual battery, lights and winch. Put in old and all was good. Put in new with different connector and charge was minimal at best. Now with right regulator everything is good.

looking on eBay you can get the right regulator for $36 or so if you are comfortable changing yourself.
 
Last edited:
Top