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Torsion bolt wont turn

Ranger Tom

Member
Messages
13
Location
Florida
I have previously set my front suspension to 24.5 inches from the center nut to the bottom fender. Since doing that about three weeks ago I remeasured and found the drivers side sitting around 24 inches. I went to bring it back up but the bolt turned about 3/8 of a turn and stopped. So I believe I am out of threads. Does this mean I need to replace my torsion spring or should I try buying lift keys?
 

Ranger Tom

Member
Messages
13
Location
Florida
Thanks for the useless info, 1st off I want it at the height I am setting it at. And your statement has nothing to do with the question I asked.
 

H3Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
700
Location
LUXEMBOURG in EU
Dude, you asked and he answers the only right thing you have to know as novice....but yes turn them over like 25 or 26" it's better....:rolleyes:
 

Ranger Tom

Member
Messages
13
Location
Florida
Dude, I just want you to know I am not a novice, I am probably older than you and have been working on cars for over 40 years. This is not my first H3 but my other one was brand new with 33's set at 23.5 which is the recommended height. 24.5 being the max recommended raise without tearing up front end parts. So I thought I would come on here and ask a simple question to all you experienced people.
 

EndeavoredH3

Well-Known Member
Messages
469
Location
Arizona
Torsion bars settle over the years. To overcome, you compensate with using more key, until you get to the key adjustment max. Which you’ve reached.

I can’t believe I’m saying this, but this MIGHT finally be a scenario where you’ll have to buy lift keys for an h3!!
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,650
Location
Scottsdale
I'd try undoing the bolt completely and try re-indexing the key. It may or may not line up, but that's where I'd start.
24.5 being the max recommended raise without tearing up front end parts.
Curious, where did you get that recommendation?
 

Ranger Tom

Member
Messages
13
Location
Florida
Torsion bars settle over the years. To overcome, you compensate with using more key, until you get to the key adjustment max. Which you’ve reached.

I can’t believe I’m saying this, but this MIGHT finally be a scenario where you’ll have to buy lift keys for an h3!!
Thanks for the advise, I too don't believe they actually sell them but if I can keep it around 24-24.5 for my 35's without bottoming the bolt that would be great. I was hoping someone on here may have run into this problem and that is how they fixed it.
 

Ranger Tom

Member
Messages
13
Location
Florida
I'd try undoing the bolt completely and try re-indexing the key. It may or may not line up, but that's where I'd start.

Curious, where did you get that recommendation?
My Uncle, who worked for GM on the H3 project years ago. When I bought my first H3 in 06 I asked how high I could lift it and that was his answer to me.
 

Happy Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,455
Location
Wisconsin
According to post (found from 2006) GM designed H3 with 22.5" front height from factory.
Went to ReadyLift to see there largest recommended height adjustment 2.25"
So, lol! That would exceed 23.5" & 24.5"..
Numerous postings of all different measurements but seems to be consensus 23.5" is highest setting (with comfort, control and safety).
I could find zero literature from GM supporting 24.5" height max.
I know you'll do as you choose but next individual to possibly read this thread might receive help from this reply.
 

650Hawk

Well-Known Member
Messages
543
Location
SoCal
If you have maxxed out your bolts, that should tell you something. If you want another inch, you're probably better off with a 1" body lift. But go ahead and buy some keys; they ARE available with a quick Google search. I also have the H3 Launch Book, by Larry Edsall, which goes into extreme detail about the design and development of the H3; there is nothing mentioned about raising the front end with the torsions; neither 23.5" nor higher. But....it is pretty much widely known/accepted that once you get over 23.5", you start over-taxing the CV joints and other parts. So, you do you. As I said, keys ARE available. Good luck.
 
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H3Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
700
Location
LUXEMBOURG in EU
Dude, I just want you to know I am not a novice, I am probably older than you and have been working on cars for over 40 years. This is not my first H3 but my other one was brand new with 33's set at 23.5 which is the recommended height. 24.5 being the max recommended raise without tearing up front end parts. So I thought I would come on here and ask a simple question to all you experienced people.

Hey sorry man, didn't want to offence you and age has nothing to do with it. I'm going to my 52 and work on cars since I was 15.
It was just the way you answer........... to a good advice.
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
You don’t need lift keys. There should be plenty of thread left. Most likely your keys are not indexed properly…very common problem. This often happens when the suspension is disassembled to replace worn parts and doesn’t get put back together correctly.

To fix this issue you must remove the keys and rotate them on the hex-shaped end of the t-bar, one flat from where they currently sit. You will immediately notice that the bolts will not reach the keys. This where most mechanics make the mistake…they simply rotate the keys on the hex so the bolts will reach (Fail).

To get it right, you must get the truck jacked up very high (like three feet!). Remove the front wheels and un-bolt the front shocks from the A-arms. Then have someone stand on the A-arms to force the suspension to full droop. Only then can you install the keys. The torsion bolts should just barely reach the keys. Then you will have enough preload on the bars to reach the desired ride height. Tighten the keys accordingly. I strongly recommend using lots of lube and a c-clamp on the keys. Never adjust the ride height with weight on the suspension. The bolts have a nasty habit of galling and seizing in the keys. If that happens…torch time!

You will know when it’s right, because the keys should be sitting horizontal in the crossmember, (or close to it) at ride height.
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,650
Location
Scottsdale
FWIW, my experience with torsion bar height . . . I was probably one of the first to publicly be able to share the effects I experienced with a higher than 23.5" measurement. The effects are not immediate and will take thousands of miles to appear, for they did appear for me. At that height, the tie rods were at a severe angle to the rack. What that created was a situation that, when the suspension flexed, the initial motion at the inner tie rod where it meets the rack was not one of rotation but of upwards force. That created a situation where the rack was worn out at the inner tie rod and the rack had to be replaced. I don't recall exactly when it had to be replaced, but it was within 2 years of being new. After the new rack, and an adjustment downwards on the torsion bars, I never had that issue again over 100,000+ miles.

And with no disrepect to your uncle, what any engineer says during design is typically outweighed by the millions of miles of real-world experience of thousands of owners. Heck, just ask the owners of Ford transmissions, Chevy LS/LT lifter issues, and Italian supercars catching on fire while idling in traffic. Or the early 2006 H3 front diff with non-hardened gears, or the H3 with aluminum front diffs, or the 06 H3 with 220 HP, or the too-often ~100K lifespan of the 4L60E transmission, or the intermediate steering linkage on early H3s, or the rear mount for the H3 front diff, etc. They got many things right, like a transfer case that lasts a long time, excellent brakes and many other things.

As you seek opinions on how to correct the issue you brought up, it may be worth considering the corollary comments that come up with that issue. There's a lot of experience here, from our under-30 owners that have taught me a lot, to our over 60 owners that have taught me likewise.
 
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