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Squeaky SAS thread

Cyouincourt007

Pavement Prince
Messages
542
Location
Miami,Fl
Was showing my wife some hummers on YouTube last night going up like a vertical cliff at Moab, black sheep squad I think it was and I saw someone and said hey wait a minute I know that face. Looked at your front tag and checked the forum and yup it was you. Nicely done sir and you guys have balls of steel. Just be safe out there please. I was on edge when you were unhooking a strap from back of an ht3 and it rolled back a bit towards ya. The guy in some red Land Rover thing maybe,.... has heart and definitely showed the better part of valor when it was obvious he wouldn't make it up and he accepted the strap up. Much respect to him for that and you guys for haging nerves of steal.
 

zackcrum

Well-Known Member
Messages
543
Location
Corinth MS
Was showing my wife some hummers on YouTube last night going up like a vertical cliff at Moab, black sheep squad I think it was and I saw someone and said hey wait a minute I know that face. Looked at your front tag and checked the forum and yup it was you. Nicely done sir and you guys have balls of steel. Just be safe out there please. I was on edge when you were unhooking a strap from back of an ht3 and it rolled back a bit towards ya. The guy in some red Land Rover thing maybe,.... has heart and definitely showed the better part of valor when it was obvious he wouldn't make it up and he accepted the strap up. Much respect to him for that and you guys for haging nerves of steal.
Haha funny thing is I let my dad watch those same videos last night....then he caught a video of Cj sas truck and watched all of those.
 

Bigunit

Hammer Down!
Staff member
Messages
6,561
Location
Arizona
Was showing my wife some hummers on YouTube last night going up like a vertical cliff at Moab, black sheep squad I think it was and I saw someone and said hey wait a minute I know that face. Looked at your front tag and checked the forum and yup it was you. Nicely done sir and you guys have balls of steel. Just be safe out there please. I was on edge when you were unhooking a strap from back of an ht3 and it rolled back a bit towards ya. The guy in some red Land Rover thing maybe,.... has heart and definitely showed the better part of valor when it was obvious he wouldn't make it up and he accepted the strap up. Much respect to him for that and you guys for haging nerves of steal.
Come out to Moab in April '15 to meet the Black Sheep Squadron and do some wheeling with us. Plenty of trails for all levels of off road experience.
 

Cyouincourt007

Pavement Prince
Messages
542
Location
Miami,Fl
Is there a section for n00bs....like bowling with the side rails on lol...sounds interesting and definitely a worthwhile experience. No promises this year but I will definitely keep it in mind. Thanks for the invite gents. If I was to plan such a trip...what would be some startup mods to consider for a stock 08 h3. I have a stealth rack purchase pending and know the h3 is ready at stock to tackle many things but what areas to consider and strengthen up her battle readiness. Thanks again gentlemen.
 

Bananatank

Well-Known Member
Messages
731
Location
Hammond,la
Is there a section for n00bs....like bowling with the side rails on lol...sounds interesting and definitely a worthwhile experience. No promises this year but I will definitely keep it in mind. Thanks for the invite gents. If I was to plan such a trip...what would be some startup mods to consider for a stock 08 h3. I have a stealth rack purchase pending and know the h3 is ready at stock to tackle many things but what areas to consider and strengthen up her battle readiness. Thanks again gentlemen.

I don't go rock crawling like all these experts on the forum lol but ik what some of the main things to purchase if you plan on doing so. I'm sure that the rock crawlers like 06h3 and big unit etc are going to for sure tell you to invest in ucp ("gotta protect the belly of the beast") then you get some rock sliders (so the side of your vehicle doesn't get beat up), proly gonna tell you to get some good a/t tires with an aggressive tread for example some cooper st maxx or stt (i just like those and it's the first tho gn that came to Mind), not sure what else I'm sure others will help with the suggestions but if you haven't already, then you might want to take your running boards off if you plan on wheeling this thing at all[emoji106]
 

derian06

Red Rockett
Messages
1,866
Location
Madison, AL
Is there a section for n00bs....like bowling with the side rails on lol...sounds interesting and definitely a worthwhile experience. No promises this year but I will definitely keep it in mind. Thanks for the invite gents. If I was to plan such a trip...what would be some startup mods to consider for a stock 08 h3. I have a stealth rack purchase pending and know the h3 is ready at stock to tackle many things but what areas to consider and strengthen up her battle readiness. Thanks again gentlemen.

UCP, Rocksliders, m/t tires, 35's, T-bar crank, lockers, 4:1 Tcase (all adventure models have them), a spare tire, a high lift jack. With good spotters, which you would have I wouldn't worry about breaking anything. Especially if you're taking the "noob" routes.

It will be fun, I would love to go if I wasn't 2 days away!
 

Cyouincourt007

Pavement Prince
Messages
542
Location
Miami,Fl
Thanks guys,I ll keep your suggestions in mind as I budget and plan and will also keep reading the forum and asking questions to learn as much as possible. Watched some more vids today and was quite impressed.
Sorry if took to the thread in a different direction, take care and wheel on brothers.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,505
Location
Meridian, ID
Heres an update. I have since welded the crossmember and got the THORparts bumper on and its an improvement over stock. Its feels tighter and I think a crossmember will not allow the framerails to move.

Back when I did bumpstops I cut out a piece of 2x4 welded the rear bumpstop cups to the 2x4 and welded that to the framrail. The issue with that is lack of adjustability and when at 30-40 mph on dirt roads I hit a bump and bottomed it out, nothing too hard to damage the shocks or anything (I checked) but I realized I needed to be able to adjust the bumpstop height. So I carefully plasma cut the 2x4 off the frame rail and then took a cut off wheel and carefully cut the bumpstop cup off the 2x4. I then grabbed some new 2x4 drilled a hole in it, welded a nut on the inside and now the nut I can put a few grade 8 washers in between the cup and 2x4 and essentially adjust the bumpstop to any height I want.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,505
Location
Meridian, ID
As for the rear I dont have bumpstops now but I am thinking about pulling the add a leaf because I have a slight rake and then do the air bag mod with the daystar air bag cradle. Wont limit droop and when loaded with camping gear I can adjust ride height. Its also nice that the airbag works as an adjustable bumpstop also.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,505
Location
Meridian, ID
lol, always something to do! The only time I actually sit around and dont do a damn thing all day is on Thanksgiving and Christmas. If I dont have school or work I am going somewhere or doing something. Gotta stay busy. One day the energizer bunny will slow down but its too soon for that now.
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
Now that my Rancho leaf pack with an AAL has gone back to OEM ride hight I decided I won't be going that way again as it only lasted 9 months.
Next is the SOA with air bags and Daystar cradle or light racing jounce shocks... I think the air bags are leading the race....

If only Crown Performance wasn't so slow at shipping things out I'd be installing the SOA tomorrow, but now I have to cancel the shop time and wait :(


Sent from handheld smoke signal device
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Hey Ram...if Crown can't get it done, let me know. I have several sets of longer brake lines in my shop. I got a local guy that makes em for me. I suspect they are sitting at customs waiting to be cleared.
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
Hey Ram...if Crown can't get it done, let me know. I have several sets of longer brake lines in my shop. I got a local guy that makes em for me. I suspect they are sitting at customs waiting to be cleared.

I think your right, didn't help that Crown didn't make my order for 2 weeks!

I'll let you know, things are going to be crazy over the next two weeks, heading down to Aspen at the moment for Winter X-games/Stag. Then when I get home I am moving 700 miles West!

Wish I knew this sooner lol!


Sent from handheld smoke signal device
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,505
Location
Meridian, ID
Heres an update on my acutal build thread...If I kept on track with my build thread and kept one thread instead of starting the SAS thread, the spring over thread, etc. This would be a million pages lol

Here are some new offshoot threads I should add...

New front bumper

http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/for...R-quot-bumpers&highlight=front+builder+bumper

New Cat

http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?9298-H3-First-Cat&highlight=squeaky

Heres the newest page, now its time for a 5.3

http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?9408-New-motor&highlight=motor

I also just ordered a SOLID rear diff cover for my rear 10 bolt...I poked a hole in my stock one at hammers. I also ordered a 10 bolt eaton e locker kit from Tom's differentials they seem to be the only people who stock them. It was 120 bucks for anyone interested and may need one in the future. Ill rebuild it myself. Doesnt seem too hard.

Time permitting I will drop off the side gear and pins off at a local cryo treatment place to help the e locker last as long as possible. With 37s and possibly going bigger later on I need to either consider an ox locker or step up to a 14 bolt. I think step up to a 14 bolt. The e locker is great locker and lasted me with about 5-6 years of abuse so I cant bitch but the last time out before the SAS my buddy heard a snap and the locker was then working 60% of the time after that snap. At hammers it was working about 40-50% of the time and the trails I plan to run now I need 2 lockers working at all times. It never ever ends...At some point the whole drivetrain will hopefully be bulletproof lol
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,505
Location
Meridian, ID
I revalved my shocks and what a difference! It feels much more stable and firmer. Not rough but it controls a hit now. Before my shocks were valved too soft. It was almost like pulling your front shocks and driving without them.

After revalving my shocks I now fully understand why racing teams will spend so much money on having shock tuners sit in a desert and watch a truck hit some terrain and just revalve till it's perfect. The difference is enough to make it feel like a new vehicle.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,505
Location
Meridian, ID
the valve #s are 275/110

The old # was 275/78. All I did was remove the 8th shim on the stack, it was the 1st shim on the compression side. Juan at bilstein said this new setup would give me 20% more slow speed control 40% high speed control. Sounds like a lot but before it was way to soft. This seems MUCH better, Now that I am in the general vicinity of where I need to be I may mess with nitrogen pressure a tad and see what happens. They recommend 180-250psi Im on the lower end of that.

So if you want bilstein 7100s for your SAS I got the 14in short body's no other 14in shock is shorter then this and for me its great. For others they may be happy with 12in travel short body's. To keep the lowest ride height possible I recommend short body's so you can get a long shock without needing to go into the engine bay. but any shock would work if you can get the ride length you need.

Lastly, those #s are specific to bilstein. Swayaway, king and fox valving #s are all much simpler like 12/15 but bilstein does their own form of measurement with newton/meters.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,505
Location
Meridian, ID
Upgrade #2 is on its way. Things have been going good on every aspect other then this. I have already logged 17k miles in the first 13 months since the SAS. I think that shows it can be used everyday. Either way one issue I have had since day 1 is noise from this axle. I bought the axle already built, locker, 5.13s, chromoly shafts, full circle clips for the u joints, Etc. either way on deceleration it would make noise. That says pinion preload. I put in new bearings and set preload, nothing...I then swapped out spindle bearings, wheel bearings, carrier bearings, basically trying to track down this issue. Adjusted pinion depth even though the first time it was near spot on. Then I blew my first R&P, after that I set it back up with the new one and realize the bearing race for the pinion can be pushed in by hand. NOT GOOD! To get these bearing races in they should be hammered in with a race driver and it should be challenging to get those ****ers in. I tried to use bearing mount and use a punch to scar the surface to make the race fit right again. It's kind of worked, it fit better but as time went on I put 2 wheeling trips on it. Big bear, gold mtn and gorman. When I went to Gorman I busted my rear locker and sure enough front gears AGAIN! While I have been try to track down this noise since day 1 of doing the SAS I think the bearing race is loose in the housing and allows the pinion to walk. I might take it to a shop when I get the axle out but basically I think the housing is trash. So in need of a replacement I was thinking about getting another stock housing weld on new brackets, etc. but CJ had an unfinished Hi pinion ford housing. The high pinion is a stronger setup then the low pinion 44 but it's driver drop, he had already retubed it and made it pass drop. I still need to attach the Cs and weld in the tubes but this is a nice little strength upgrade and everything will transfer over including the locker. I just need a gear set for the ford high pinion.

So with all that said its been a long time tracking this down and my guess is bearing race. Either way, when buying an axle, I bought fully built which is great. I got about 2k worth of upgrades for 1k but with that said I should of opened it up and inspected it. This housing may have been trashed since day 1 and it slowly got worse and worse. So I will be replacing my low pinion with a high pinion. Hopefully after this it can become a **** free axle....I guess that's the risk you run when buying an axle that's 43 years old.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,505
Location
Meridian, ID
Been busy but need to update! Been trying to get this done, but I've had a few job interviews, been looking/applying for jobs, work, and life slowing it down...Wouldn't it be nice if you could just work on 4x4s all day long. :) Heading to NY now for 4 days...my cousins baby's christening is this weekend but I get back monday and I'm hoping it will be back together before next thursday.

Old axle is completely torn down and out from under squeaky. New axle was an unfinished high pinion which were driver side drop only. CJ retubed it to chevy specs and passenger drop but no C's on etc. Got the C's on set pinion angle up 3 degrees and caster back 6 degrees and welded her in. I used the old axle to make sure specs are the same such as camber. Camber cant be ****ed up too bad because you have to pound the C's on for 10 minutes, its a tight fit but measuring them compared to the old axle will get the upper and lower BJ holes the same as the old axle which was OEM spec. After I welded the Cs on I started measuring tacking brackets on and again using the old axle for reference. This time I tried a TNT track bar vs my ruff stuff one which was on the old axle. The TNT one is not much better, its not that they are bad brackets its just I have not found a bracket that you can use on an H3 without hacking it, modifying it and adding metal you have to form to get it to fit right and be strong. I left this morning with 95% of it welded up. Install kit comes in today and gears are here. So when I get home I have less then half an hour of welding left then its gear time. I also am replacing ball joints. Thats one issue I have noticed with the old school dana 44 no one makes a badass bombproof ball joint like they do for JK 44's. I used Moog problem solvers last time and with 18k on them they have some play in them already :gaah: I am trying raybestos professional grade this time. Supposedly they are much better then their service grade and better then moog. From my limited research it sounds like Moog and other companies used to make nice ball joints that lasted a while then they outsourced crap a few years back and sure enough quality went down drastically. So we will see but after seeing play in my MOOG problem solvers im not running them again. So its basically buttoning up the diff and reassembly after the gears. The rear locker is toast again so I am going to run an ox locker which is much stronger so I will probably sell my eaton e locker for $125. Its broken but the rebuild kit is around 200. All said and done you can have an e locker for 325 vs 600+.

Anyways, heres some weld pics!





 
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