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H3 Pictures of an H3 with fake hood vent removed?

Cliff

Member
Messages
19
Location
Oregon
Does anyone have any pictures of an H3 with the hood vent removed. I'm trying to get an idea of how one would look without louvers but using the bolt holes for custom hood handles. I've seen one a while back but I've searched all over and having been able to come up with any pictures.
 

Highatop

Well-Known Member
Messages
600
Location
Florissant, Co.
Thats a good lookin rig 4speed and your mods. Any plans on fillin the holes on your hood, or is it just easier and cheaper to replace the elec tape? Or even make a piece of trim for top and bottom to mount to the holes. I like the look too, just not the tape. Keep up the good work.
 

Cliff

Member
Messages
19
Location
Oregon
That is an awesome h3! Like you, I'm not a fan of the fake louver, looks cheesy. Unfortunately there are a hell of a lot more holes in the hood then I thought.
 

Best4x4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,042
Location
Vidor, TX
On a Black H3 I'd just get a black sticker like the Camel Trophy Land Rover Discoveries used on their hoods to stop the glare. Might not look bad on a colored H3 either.
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
Nekked

But if you remove it something like one of these ideas could be done in place of the louver.
Magnetic sheets

Plasti-dip
 

ReconH3

Guardian Angel
Messages
2,288
Location
Raleigh, NC
I just got an idea from another post with light pods. Why don't you fill the place of the louvre with one of those magnetic panels like above. Then using the original holes, mount a bracket for one of those LED light bars that is closest to the width of the louvre.


"Ex Umbris Venimus"
 

TAPDH3T

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,510
Location
Texarkana, Texas
I have found just the louvre light mold for $240 on several websites.. U have to buy 3 4" lights seperatly.. I then found another by high tech that comes with 4 lights but it's $1200!! hmmm $1200 or $300-$400 after all said and done.. Someone needs to pull the trigger.. I could not find the demensions..
Edit: wrong post..
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
The big issue is the holes, themselves. Doesn't matter if you run a stock louver, or some other dohinky....you want to get rid of the holes. My electrical tape was a temporary fix..three years ago!!! That sort of speaks volumes, I guess...its obviously not high on my list. Hunner's shot clearly shows how dirt & debris gets caught underneath the louver....I had a pile of pine needles under mine!

The shape of the hood totally sucks. Its like a "gutter" where water collects (with or without the louver), so even if you were to fix the holes...water will still puddle in the gutter along the front edge. Ideally the hood needs re-shaped to be flat or at least have a scoop or something to shed the water away from it...instead of collecting it and funneling it down onto the motor. (duh GM!). That being said...I have plans to weld-up the holes but, that doesn't do a thing for the puddling issue.

However, I have another buddy that is a carbon fiber wiz. He makes parts for high-end racing quads. I need to pull my hood off and take it to him, so he can make a CF version...one without any gutter or low spots! Totally flat...the way GM should have made it in the first place.
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
I have always wondered why CF hoods never made their way into the 4x4 crowd... I know its very tuner'ish but it doesn't serve much of a function, so any way to loose weight the better right!?
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
My reason for carbon fiber?...

The CF guy lives five minutes down the road! It would be painted black...couldn't care less about "the tuner look" (electrical tape looks fine to me!-LOL). Yes...Any weight savings on the H3 is good thing...intentional or not.
 

08H3

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,367
Location
United States
Electrical tape weighs less than carbon fiber. I'd stick with the tape! :) On black, unless someone told you, you would never know it was tape. I didn't on 4Speed's until he told me. Can't you weld them up easier than any other option?
 

6pack

Active Member
Messages
25
Location
Eldersburg, MD
I would rather have a functional hood scoop. I rarely see water much less deep water, so I'm not worried about it coming up over the hood. Anyone ever seen that done?
 

08H3

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,367
Location
United States
I would rather have a functional hood scoop. I rarely see water much less deep water, so I'm not worried about it coming up over the hood. Anyone ever seen that done?

Fording isn't the issue. It's rainwater dripping on the coils.
 

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,827
Location
Bellflower, CA
I actually like the clean look with out the louvers. On the list, my cousin has a body and he said no more than 300 to fill, sand, & repaint the hood.
LOL, I just read my own post. Yes, my cousin has a body, that sounds BAD. I meant to say he has a BODY SHOP in Bellflower.
 
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Cliff

Member
Messages
19
Location
Oregon
I've been toying with the idea of a 1-2" cowl grafted onto the hood and color matched. It would greatly reduce underhoid heat and if done right, water wouldn't be an issue.
 

Highatop

Well-Known Member
Messages
600
Location
Florissant, Co.
I actually like the clean look with out the louvers. On the list, my cousin has a body and he said no more than 300 to fill, sand, & repaint the hood.

I hope so. Clean up would more then that and not sure how the finish would come out.
Really, I like the look too. The scoop and lights is nice but...Havin another aftermarket opinion, even the hood. Is a good thin
I think , I'm seein more H3 out there. They are more affortable now. Maybe we can more parts?
 
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4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Can't you weld them up easier than any other option?

Yes and No. I only have a MIG and I'm sure it would make a mess of things. Sheet metal this thin needs to be done with TIG, so you can properly control the heat going into the weld. I'm afraid if I tried to MIG it...the hood would buckle and distort. This would add more cost to the body shop bill, to get it straight enough to spray. Either way...I think it should be done with small pieces of 22ga. patch metal, rather than simply trying to do it with wire alone. I say this because of the thickness of the material. Filling a hole with wire alone works good...but only on thick stuff. If you try to do it with wire alone...its much like pissing in the snow! -LOL

Another idea I had:
Grab some metal ductwork tape (the shiney stuff with the peel-off backing)...cover-up the holes...then mask-off the center panel of the hood...and shoot it with Line-X. No bondo. No sanding. No painting. I think the Line-X would be thick enough to cover and "encapsulate" the tape forever. This would look better than electrical tape but, water would still puddle on the front edge. It would look much like a textured version of the "champ edition" hood. Not sure if the extra weight of the Line-X would effect the hood assist shocks or not.
 
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MSC

Well-Known Member
Messages
75
Location
Montgomery, TX
I had OEM roof lights and wanted to remove them, the Line-X shop did it with metal duct tape and sprayed Line-X on my entire roof...it turned out great. Since my H3 is lifted, it's not easy getting to the roof for cleaning maintenance because I had a roof rack on it at that time. I had built a stainless and aluminum rack...but it was noisy and a lot of wind resistance, not sure what's next.

Mark
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Good to know MSC...I think the Line-X idea has some merit. Because its thick and textured, it has a natural ability to hide imperfections (tape) underneath it. Also...once sprayed, the coating becomes hard as hell. My Line-X dealer has an aluminum beer can that has been coated. You cannot crush it...might as well be a piece of steel. So, I'm not concerned with any flexing of the tape under the coating. Once something is Line-X'd...its pretty much bomb-proof. This is one characteristic of Line-X that blows away Rhino-lining.

I think Rhino has superior traction properties. Its very rubber-like and I would certainly prefer it on any surface that you might walk on (tops of bumpers, or truck-beds). But its heavy, it rips, and the rubber finish doesn't wash & wax very well. Line-X is thinner (more like paint) and much harder which is great for things like grilles, fenders, rock-rails, and any other surface that you want to coat...but not walk on. Both are great products...but very different from each other.

Perhaps I should pull the fuse on the sunroof...tape it shut...and Line-X over the top of it! -Ha
 
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MSC

Well-Known Member
Messages
75
Location
Montgomery, TX
The center of your hood would look great! It would add some pretty cool contrast and people can't give you any crap about your electrical tape any more and it would be a much cheaper fix. I was checking out your video above...GREAT rig!

Mark
 
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