New found problems

[Bananatank]

Okay so it's time to make a new thread for this I assume. Let's start from the top: hummer was constantly giving me low oil pressure warning everytime I would come to a stop. Later on my vehicle began showing reduced power which was new to me. I took to the forum for advice which led to me cleaning my throttle body and my maf sensor hoping that would fix the problem and it fixed the required power sensor or I thought it did at least and it also didn't fix my oil light. I then resulted to increasing the weight of oil to 10w-30 this solved the oil pressure light for about a day as well. I got excited obviously all my problems were gone[emoji4]...jkkkkk next day I get on the interstate and get off the exit come to a halt andddd the oil pressure light came back on.... Come to find out the next day (today) required power light came on as did stabilitrac failed and the trac control failed... So what should I do guys?? I take to the previous owners who can give the best advice and the ones who don't charge $600 for it. I'll be taking to a shop soon if I can't fix the problem by replacing one or two sensors. So advice is needed soon the required power is not always on only sometimes.


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[cbetts]

Have you done the battery terminals yet? The stock ones basically suck and cause a multitude of computer glitches.

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[CaseyS]

Reduced power message is usually related to the throttle body. Either the TB is not tracking command properly or the accel pedal resistors mismatch or are out of range. Intermittent problem would lead me to throttle body, may want to double check nothing is hanging since you just cleaned it. You should be able to plug the TB in the harness with it out of the duct and watch it move as you push the pedal. Cycle it through several times.

 

[Mr_Rich]

Reduced power message is usually related to the throttle body. Either the TB is not tracking command properly or the accel pedal resistors mismatch or are out of range. Intermittent problem would lead me to throttle body, may want to double check nothing is hanging since you just cleaned it. You should be able to plug the TB in the harness with it out of the duct and watch it move as you push the pedal. Cycle it through several times.

What he said...seriously I'll expand on this...

This past week I received a letter in the mail from GM.

Dear Richard....

As the owner of a 2009 model year Hummer H3T, your satisfaction with our product is very important to us.

This letter is intended to make you aware that, on some 2009 model year Hummer H3T vehicles, the throttle-position sensor may cause the engine to run rough, cause the malfunction-indicator lamp and/or and engine reduced power message to illuminate, and reduce the engine's power.

There's more but those are the pertinent details. Cleaning the throttle body is worthwhile, but doesn't do anything to correct an electrical problem that intermittently pops up at the worst times. The letter includes a form to fill out for reimbursement on a replacement throttle body. It's been two years since I replaced my throttle body. Two years later I receive this letter. Pfffft.
Lot of good it does me now, but this knowledge may help you replace your throttle body and get reimbursed for it.

Good luck!

 

[Bananatank]

Went to autozone today ran a couple codes the suggested purchase was map sensor I bought that didn't fix the problem It's very inconsistent now I have been getting required power more than before so I will be taking my battery terminals off and cleaning them possibly replacing them I'm not sure if that's necessary considering they appear to be in okay condition. Okay so to clarify I have two different problem or at least I think they're different.

1) the oil pressure sensor comes on nowhere near as frequently now but still occasionally

2) my cat keeps showing required power, failed stabilitrac/trac control and for some reason that dumbfounded me, died today when I put my car in reverse... It cranked back up immediately but switching from drive to neutral to reverse made it die maybe my idle was too low at the time but idk [emoji849][emoji849][emoji849][emoji849][emoji849][emoji849] contemplating selling or going to shop soon have yet to decide. Any other suggestions besides battery cables




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[650Hawk]

I've fought the "reduced power, traction failed, service stabilitrac" message for awhile now on my '08 Alpha. It popped up every time I went off-road when I first bought the truck, and I could also duplicate it by wiggling the wiring harness on top of the engine. It seemed like the shaking and vibration of off-road driving was a sure way to trigger the problem. Now, I've been told that when the engine goes into the reduced power mode, the stabilitrac and traction control automatically go down as well, since the computer feels that neither is necessary when running under reduced power. Not sure if that's true, but I guess it makes sense in a perverse sort of way. Which means that if you solve the reduced power mode, the stabilitrac/traction control will also be solved by default.

Anyway, several forums kept asking me about my battery terminals. Although they were still stock, they seemed tight and in good condition, so I really didn't consider that as a likely cause. Recently, my battery died, so I went ahead and replaced them with some really nice units (similar to Stingers), as well as a new battery. After cutting the old ones off and looking close at them to see how they actually operate/tighten, it's obvious that they are a really hokey design. It's not a matter of if they will fail, it's a matter of when.

Over thanksgiving, I took the truck out to Glamis on our annual Turkey Day ATV trip, and ran it in the dunes quite a bit during the weekend. A lot of significantly rough terrain, crossgrain, and shaking...yet never once did the "reduced power/traction failed/service stabilitrac" error pop up! Now, I'm still not convinced that the battery terminals were the culprit, but I have not been able to duplicate the problem since...between the new battery terminals and the new battery, I am now guaranteed full voltage at all times, and these H3s, from what I have heard numerous times, are extremely sensitive to voltage fluctuations. So regardless of what your stock battery terminals look like, replacing them is cheap insurance and can't hurt.

 

[alrock]

My issue, with the exact same symptoms, was fixed by replacing the oil pressure switch located by the oil filter. Google the issue regarding oil pressure and coming to a stop, and you'll see it's a common issue/repair not limited to the H3.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

random errors is generally a battery issue.
you may still need to replace the oil pressure switch after you replace the battery (or alternator). I've replaced several oil pressure switches unless that low-pressure is accompanied by lifter noise it's simply the sender. I do like the relieved look when you tell someone that it's 1/2 hour and 10 bucks to fix their issue... The computer would reduce power if it thought the oil pressure was low.

 

[Paranormal]

I cannot recommend any other different fix other than previously posted on this thread. These trucks appear to be very problematic when it comes to a simple solution as the terminals and the battery. What I can tell you is not to follow the advice of someone at Autozone. Buy yourself a scanner, they are not much, read the codes and do your homework. Go to the parts store, knowing what you need.

 

[Best4x4]

When I had first bought my wife's 07 Adventure, the first thing I did was change the oil. Soon after that she said the oil light came on... I was not happy that the dealership lied and told me they'd changed the oil when they hadn't, then I found it using the wrong filter (which looked about the size of a small candle...). So at first I was like GRRRRRRR, but I calmed down and did my research and yeah I saw several threads about oil light at low RPM or at a stop light, and that the oil pressure switch was the fix. Ran down to Auto Zone and grabbed a new one which was like 20.00, and the problem never came back and I put 20K on that H3 before my wife and I had to sell it in order to build a shop/garage. The original oil pressure switch had failed in such a way that when I unplugged the electrical connection it was filled with OIL. That was also the only oil leak that H3 had when I bought it so after that it was leak free.

 

[Bananatank]

Update: just replaced the shi**y battery terminals no more code and no warnings about reduced power or anything as of now. I'll be running it so see if anything changes it. To be continued...


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[Bananatank]

Update part 2: fixed it for a period of time and the codes just came back on failed stabilitrac etc and reduced power.... Spoke too soon ig


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[alrock]

Stabilitrak, etc. - make sure none of your 4WD buttons are stuck halfway in. Cycle through the different modes to be sure things are working properly.

 

[alrock]

The reduced power would not likely be a part of the buttons (from my post above). A weak battery could be an issue, get it tested if you haven't already.

 

[chaos254]

What are the codes your getting?

 

[H32NV]

connector issue

I have the exact same oil problem with my 2007 H3. Oil light comes on when coming to a stop. After some research, I ordered an Oil Pressure Switch from AutoZone, and when I went to replace it, the CONNECTOR was so corroded that the wire split as I disconnected it. The wire broke off down inside the connector somewhere. I couldn't possibly fix it or splice in a new wire. I went on rockauto to buy just the connector and pigtails, replaced that, and BAM. $19. Fixed. Returned the Sensor. I can only guess that the deceleration moved the wire in a way that it broke contact with the circuit. Also, if the wires were that corroded, they would have had a sgnificant voltage drop across them, and made the sensor's return voltage look artificially low, thus tripping the computer error.

I have been noticing problems all around my truck with corrosion of the wiring harness. It has happened to two of my ABS sensor connectors, Trailer wiring harness, MAP connector, and now the Oil Pressure Switch connector. What the heck is going on. Everything is totally eaten away and crumbles apart....

 

[Bananatank]

What are the codes your getting?

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[Paranormal]

I feel your pain Bananatank. Would not want this happening to me. Based on what I have read here in the past, I believe that those codes are related to your gas pedal which is one assembly. Start by checking connections down by the pedal and by the throttle body. Good luck.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-Mo...m2ee97c2717:m:mlABxQI42FbKG_BD-EX777g&vxp=mtr

 

[alrock]

Yeah, I'd look at the gas pedal first, then the throttle body, as Paranormal said.

 

[Bananatank]

Okay for the constant oil dinging at idle. I checked the lower oil sensor right above the oil filter, I unplugged it and it was covered in oil as was the sensor plug in spot is this normal?? I realize that was worded pretty badly but I tried my best to describe that lmfao


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[Bananatank]

And what plug should I be looking for near the throttle body?? I'll check down low by the accelerator to see if it's loose or something but what about by the throttle body what should I be looking for, and where?


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[chaos254]

Okay for the constant oil dinging at idle. I checked the lower oil sensor right above the oil filter, I unplugged it and it was covered in oil as was the sensor plug in spot is this normal?? I realize that was worded pretty badly but I tried my best to describe that lmfao


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No that's not normal. Replace the sensor and clean up the connector

 

[CaseyS]

http://www.obd-codes.com/p2135

Like I said earlier. The reduced power message is due to the throttle body. The are two potentiometers in the TB. They dont match. Either there was damage or something happened to the TB when you cleaned it, or the connector is not making good contact. Check the connections first and rule that out.

 

[Bananatank]

Update time: i finally caved and scheduled an appointment with the mechanic. The night before I wanted to try one more time so I check the connections by tb and by the pedal. I noticed absolutely nothing wrong but I took the pedal off anyway. I put everything back together and started it. I still had a cel, but no reduced power. I was in no way shocked bc that happened occasionally. Brought it to the mechanic he cleared cel drove it around for three days checked to see if the tb was responding normally to accelerator, he noticed no problems besides a rough idle. He cleared the sensor and there has been no problems thus far. Maybe I fixed it that night, maybe it will come back though[emoji854] time will tell. If anyone would like to give me some instructions on how to replace that oil pressure sensor that'd be helpful because that does need to be fixed. As always, Thanks guys.


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[Biggsly]

New member here. I just bought my first H3 about 3 months ago. It is a 2006 that had 78,000 miles on it. I just turned 80,500 last Saturday. I hit a pot hole in the road and next thing I know, it is dinging and the oil light is on. I will try to replace the sensor this weekend. I hope this fixes the problem. It just comes on when I stop, but not every time.