MoveBumpers DIY kit review

[derian06]

After messing around for a little bit I realized that you have to cut out holes for the tow hooks in order to mount it.

 

[RamRod]

After messing around for a little bit I realized that you have to cut out holes for the tow hooks in order to mount it.

Oh yeah? You can't just drill the holes?


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[derian06]

Oh yeah? You can't just drill the holes?


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Nope, it'll be easier to explain once I have pictures, but you weld a mounting plate to the bumper which bolts into the frame, and in order to make it reach/fit you have to cut the hole.

 

[RamRod]

Makes sense, thanks for the pic

 

[Scarsman]

What kind of welder do you have for doing this?

 

[amrg]

Mind me asking whats the weight on that bumper?

 

[derian06]

Mind me asking whats the weight on that bumper?

it was 118 lbs for the whole package including the winch mount and stinger.

What kind of welder do you have for doing this?

A 220v stick welder with some E6011 rods.

 

[RamRod]

have you ever tried 7018 rod? It sucks that you need an oven to store the rods in after opening the package, but its such an easy rod to weld with that will require very little clean up. This rod is usualy used in structural welding and is good for all possitions except "vertical down".

6011 will work if thats what you have, just giving you an option

 

[cbetts]

have you ever tried 7018 rod? It sucks that you need an oven to store the rods in after opening the package, but its such an easy rod to weld with that will require very little clean up. This rod is usualy used in structural welding and is good for all possitions except "vertical down".

6011 will work if thats what you have, just giving you an option

This must be how my wife feels when I start talking about UNIX around her . . . I could have sworn you are speaking Latin . . .

 

[Scarsman]

Funny, when I saw he had a stick welder I was going to say 7018 would be a way better choice. And for stuff like this, you really don't need an oven. As long as you keep it in a nice dry place. And you'll use most of a box on this anyway.

 

[RamRod]

This must be how my wife feels when I start talking about UNIX around her . . . I could have sworn you are speaking Latin . . .

Ha! Yeah my GF is the same way when she starts talking about Ballet... I know the feeling, but I am no welding expert, just been exposed to it my whole life since I gre up in a blue collar town

 

[derian06]

Funny, when I saw he had a stick welder I was going to say 7018 would be a way better choice. And for stuff like this, you really don't need an oven. As long as you keep it in a nice dry place. And you'll use most of a box on this anyway.

I've used 7018's and I actually prefer the 6011's, my bead is pretty clean and I don't have to deal with the messy restartups of the 7018's.

 

[Scarsman]

7018 is stronger and better for structural things though. Actually, intended for it. 6011 is more of a repair/maintenance rod, and good for working with dirty, rusty metal. 7018 is about the easiest rod there is to run. Yes, restarts are hard but that is fixed with keeping a good file handy and giving the tip of the rod a few swipes to get the flux crust off it. Tapping the tip on a concrete floor works too. Or if your concrete has a rough finish just scraping across the concrete.

Yes, 6011 will work, but 7018 would actually be the right tool for the job. Especially if you plan to bolt a winch to it and pull on it or use the recovery points.

 

[derian06]

7018 is stronger and better for structural things though. Actually, intended for it. 6011 is more of a repair/maintenance rod, and good for working with dirty, rusty metal. 7018 is about the easiest rod there is to run. Yes, restarts are hard but that is fixed with keeping a good file handy and giving the tip of the rod a few swipes to get the flux crust off it. Tapping the tip on a concrete floor works too. Or if your concrete has a rough finish just scraping across the concrete.

Yes, 6011 will work, but 7018 would actually be the right tool for the job. Especially if you plan to bolt a winch to it and pull on it or use the recovery points.

Interesting, I guess I'll have to go out and get some 7018's then.

 

[derian06]

Had some gruelingly slow progress tonight, I started cutting the holes after figuring out how to compensate for the body lift. Turns out its really simple, just a 1" gap down from the original mounting place.

Then I started cutting my first hole and 3/4 of the way there my angle grinder decided to break. (Danm harbor freight tools) so I tacked the mounting plates in place then bolted the bumper in from behind it just to see if everything would fit, and it looks great!

If I'm lucky tomorrow i'll finish welding everything and sunday i'll paint.

 

[Woodtick]

X3 on the 7018. You may find it easy to make your first pass with the farmer rod (6011). It's ment as a clean up rod. Try turning your welder up a bit,your welds don't look like they have enough penetration. Like mentioned above,you will have a winch mounted to it, you can't have bad welds. I've never done a bumper,but I have been a Local 597 Pipefitter for over 20 years.

 

[RamRod]

It's coming along nicely, just remember to take your time get the right tools for the job and it will turn out great!

Not sure how much you know about welding, but another couple of little tips for you that you can ignore if you already know, clean up those tacks with a wire brush to keep out contamination when you go to run the rest of the bead & space out your welds by going back and forth from one side to the other so you don't apply too much heat in one area and warp your material.

I assume it's going to get a layer of raptor liner when it's done!?


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[derian06]

X3 on the 7018. You may find it easy to make your first pass with the farmer rod (6011). It's ment as a clean up rod. Try turning your welder up a bit,your welds don't look like they have enough penetration. Like mentioned above,you will have a winch mounted to it, you can't have bad welds. I've never done a bumper,but I have been a Local 597 Pipefitter for over 20 years.

Those tacks are from my cheap harbor freight welder, I didn't want very much penetration incase they didn't fit well. I just held the arc on there for about 20 seconds.

It's coming along nicely, just remember to take your time get the right tools for the job and it will turn out great!

Not sure how much you know about welding, but another couple of little tips for you that you can ignore if you already know, clean up those tacks with a wire brush to keep out contamination when you go to run the rest of the bead & space out your welds by going back and forth from one side to the other so you don't apply too much heat in one area and warp your material.

I assume it's going to get a layer of raptor liner when it's done!?


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Raptor liner is the plan, but I'll use rustoleum on the back, because i'm not going to weld the winch playe on until I have my winch just to make sure everything lines up properly. But i'll be sure to clean everything before I run my beads. Also I realized that I was using a regular 7018 with my AC arc welder. Thats most likely the reason why i've been having so much trouble. I'm going to try to find some 7018AC's.

 

[derian06]

Tackin

 

[Woodtick]

Holy chit Man,dats a lot of bumper.

 

[derian06]

3 passes on each side of the mount, I don't think they're going anywhere. Also on the factory D rings there isn't enough room to fit the bolt, so i'm going to get two smaller bolts of the same thickness and use those instead. I'm going to have to figure out how to fit the factory skid plate, or I may just weld the skid to the bumper.

 

[Woodtick]

Run a pass on either side of that one. Then run one down the middle. You can take my advice with a grain of salt, 15 min or 15 psi,lol. Your grinder and wire wheel are your friend,use them!!!

 

[Woodtick]

15 min or 15 psi is a joke between fitters. Stop trying to make your welds look pretty and focus on strong. The right guy with a 4. 1/2"grinder can make a weld disappear . The Bean at MP in Chicago is an example of how you make a weld disappear . Stay focused grasshopper . Lol

 

[derian06]

15 min or 15 psi is a joke between fitters. Stop trying to make your welds look pretty and focus on strong. The right guy with a 4. 1/2"grinder can make a weld disappear . The Bean at MP in Chicago is an example of how you make a weld disappear . Stay focused grasshopper . Lol

I was going for penetration... They just all turn out like that. I'm using an circular motion and I think I did a couple using the whip and pause.

Any advice on motion or technique for penetration? But from the looks of it I have full penetration.

 

[Woodtick]

Your first pass doesn't look to bad. Run a pass on both sides of your first pass. Then put your cap pass on top,wire wheel in between. This isn't a running race, take your time.