4speedfunk
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 4,250
- Location
- Tardville
After logging a few street miles on the SAS, I have done some final mods to make things more "complete":
1. I sent the puter to PCM4less and got it re-flashed for 5.13 gearing and 37" tires.
2. I installed matching Fox shocks on the rear...these came from Down South Motorsports (San Diego). These are 28"-18" range.
3. I cut the rear bump stops off at the frame, and moved them to the front.
4. I fabbed some bump plates and installed some aftermarket rear bump stops from Off Road Design.
5. I installed some 4-degree shims (backwards) to lower my pinion angle. These are Skyjackers and they totally suck (aluminum).
6. I installed some new, longer U-bolts. Stock ones are too short after the add-a-leafs and shims.
7. I had the rear driveshaft lengthened 1-1/2" and added a 1" longer slip yoke to the front shaft.
After doing all this, I checked the length on my ABS lines, brake lines, and anything else that might be effected by suspension flex. Then I went over to a friend's place and did some slow crawls over his quad track. I stopped and climbed underneath several times to check for conflicts. The only real issue was the parking brake cable on the passenger-side rear. It needs to be re-routed and unclamped from the frame rail. I plan to use large zip-ties instead, as they inherently have a "break-away" feature built into them. The rear flex is downright insane, and if anything...its too much! I will probably add some limit straps to the rear suspension. The rear bump-stops will indeed fully-squish under the right conditions, and I'm glad I added some "landing platforms" on top of the spring plates. These offer a nice flat surface for the bump to contact, and lessen the amount of "bucket" that I had to add to the frame. The rear bump stops can be adjusted with spacers and longer bolts if need be.
On the front...I was very pleased with my home-made bumpstops, and using the original cups and stops worked great. Best of all...I can adjust them by adding hocky-pucks and longer bolts, if necessary. But, right now...they seem to work perfect, so I'm leaving them alone. I chose to re-use the original 1973 GM leaf spring perches, as a landing pad for the front bumps. It's very tight under here, so this seemed like an easy fix, and it works pretty good. Plus...the perches were already there (pass. side is cast into the pumpkin).
It has become clear to me that I need some more steering power. I will be adding a ram-assist and I might also play around with pitman arm length, to try and get a more consistent "feel" at the wheel. I cannot tell if the issue I'm having is due to the geometry of my steering links, or simply a lack of muscle. I'll try the ram first, and then see how it feels. The turning radius is slightly less than stock but, still very adequate for the trails around here, and I have no plans to change it. I'm saving up for some 37"s and that may require me to adjust the stops on my knuckles if I get some rubbing. No rubbing right now with 35"s.
I have also decided to add sway bars, and I'm unsure on how to do that right now...but, I'll come up with something. I think stock rear bar can simply be re-installed with longer links but, the front will be something completely new. The location of the outboard-style steering box could make a front sway bar very challenging. Still head-scratchin that one.
I have a big slab of 3/16" steel reserved for a trans/t-case skid plate. This doesn't seem too difficult but, its not high priority yet.
Overall I'm still very happy with the mods. I have ZERO dash lights, and everything works like factory...I just want to go the extra mile to get the steering more dailed-in, and get the pavement manners more "stock-ish" feeling. The EBC "green" brake pads are now broke-in and work amazing. Haven't wired-up the front locker yet...on my list of things to get done. This truck drives down the highway very nicely, and damn near causes crashes when other off-roaders see it. Right now on 35"s...it still fits in my garage.
:thumbs: I'll continue to post successes and failures as I get further into it.
1. I sent the puter to PCM4less and got it re-flashed for 5.13 gearing and 37" tires.
2. I installed matching Fox shocks on the rear...these came from Down South Motorsports (San Diego). These are 28"-18" range.
3. I cut the rear bump stops off at the frame, and moved them to the front.
4. I fabbed some bump plates and installed some aftermarket rear bump stops from Off Road Design.
5. I installed some 4-degree shims (backwards) to lower my pinion angle. These are Skyjackers and they totally suck (aluminum).
6. I installed some new, longer U-bolts. Stock ones are too short after the add-a-leafs and shims.
7. I had the rear driveshaft lengthened 1-1/2" and added a 1" longer slip yoke to the front shaft.
After doing all this, I checked the length on my ABS lines, brake lines, and anything else that might be effected by suspension flex. Then I went over to a friend's place and did some slow crawls over his quad track. I stopped and climbed underneath several times to check for conflicts. The only real issue was the parking brake cable on the passenger-side rear. It needs to be re-routed and unclamped from the frame rail. I plan to use large zip-ties instead, as they inherently have a "break-away" feature built into them. The rear flex is downright insane, and if anything...its too much! I will probably add some limit straps to the rear suspension. The rear bump-stops will indeed fully-squish under the right conditions, and I'm glad I added some "landing platforms" on top of the spring plates. These offer a nice flat surface for the bump to contact, and lessen the amount of "bucket" that I had to add to the frame. The rear bump stops can be adjusted with spacers and longer bolts if need be.
On the front...I was very pleased with my home-made bumpstops, and using the original cups and stops worked great. Best of all...I can adjust them by adding hocky-pucks and longer bolts, if necessary. But, right now...they seem to work perfect, so I'm leaving them alone. I chose to re-use the original 1973 GM leaf spring perches, as a landing pad for the front bumps. It's very tight under here, so this seemed like an easy fix, and it works pretty good. Plus...the perches were already there (pass. side is cast into the pumpkin).
It has become clear to me that I need some more steering power. I will be adding a ram-assist and I might also play around with pitman arm length, to try and get a more consistent "feel" at the wheel. I cannot tell if the issue I'm having is due to the geometry of my steering links, or simply a lack of muscle. I'll try the ram first, and then see how it feels. The turning radius is slightly less than stock but, still very adequate for the trails around here, and I have no plans to change it. I'm saving up for some 37"s and that may require me to adjust the stops on my knuckles if I get some rubbing. No rubbing right now with 35"s.
I have also decided to add sway bars, and I'm unsure on how to do that right now...but, I'll come up with something. I think stock rear bar can simply be re-installed with longer links but, the front will be something completely new. The location of the outboard-style steering box could make a front sway bar very challenging. Still head-scratchin that one.
I have a big slab of 3/16" steel reserved for a trans/t-case skid plate. This doesn't seem too difficult but, its not high priority yet.
Overall I'm still very happy with the mods. I have ZERO dash lights, and everything works like factory...I just want to go the extra mile to get the steering more dailed-in, and get the pavement manners more "stock-ish" feeling. The EBC "green" brake pads are now broke-in and work amazing. Haven't wired-up the front locker yet...on my list of things to get done. This truck drives down the highway very nicely, and damn near causes crashes when other off-roaders see it. Right now on 35"s...it still fits in my garage.
:thumbs: I'll continue to post successes and failures as I get further into it.
