ALL Aluminum radiator

[Chook]

I know all aluminum radiators are all the rage, but don't expect them to last.

Not generally the case Max though.............I acknowledge aluminum radiators are susceptible to premature failure due to stray electrical current but this is easy to identify and rectify using a multimeter. The instructions that come with the PWR Radiator include a warning of this problem and how to check your vehicle before &after fitting.

 

[6pack]

The instructions that come with the PWR Radiator include a warning of this problem and how to check your vehicle before &after fitting.

The Ron Davis radiator had these warnings and instructions also.

 

[Cyouincourt007]

Very interesting thread folks. I heard from a fellow h3 owner recently about the notorious radiator issues on h3. Silly question but is replacing it with a new one from dealer or aftermarket at radiator shop locally a resolution to this problem. I'd rather pay a bit and get it resolved then have to deal with the potential fallout and avoid having damage to trans etc. or other vital parts. wherein specifically is the problem the factory radiator itself or the design? Are after market radiators addressing the issue. I recall notorious intake manifold failures on the crown Vic's due to cracks and plastic. When I replaced it the new one from ebay used a metal in certain part to correct the factory design and avoid repeat failure.


mine is 08 h3 at almost 104k miles.

 

[Best4x4]

I used a Silla Radiator on my wife's H3. Works great and they did a better job of sealing the transcooler vs the rather small O-Ring Design on the OEM radiator. All plastic radiators no matter what brand are going to fail. Just the nature of the beast. If and when I need to replace my Alpha's radiator I'll be installing a Silla brand in it as well.

 

[Mb30sdl]

Mine failed ~110k due to mileage I overhaled whole cooling system -heater core.

looks like alum radiator is in for about a year at this point, no problems so far but I installed ground wire from TC to ground.

 

[DJinCO]

When it is -10 outside and the transmission temp is somewhere around 20 degrees, I want the radiator pumping warm transmission fluid to the transmission.

A few years ago I took a photo of the scan gauge showing the trans temp and the outside temp... it was cold.

 

[Mb30sdl]

He is In Florida and I am in SoCal. It doesn't get cold here at all.

 

[H3HummerLineX]

Is there any advantage to putting a fan on front of radiator along with the stock fan clutch system?

 

[amrg]

Yup! Big time esp if you put a dual fan!
I have that setup, zero overheating on the alpha in 120+ weather and extremely heavy loads.

 

[H3HummerLineX]

That's good to know. I'm hitting high numbers in the summer time. Amy photos you could share? ?

 

[amrg]

http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?p=138643

Check post # 18

 

[H3HummerLineX]

Great!! Did you use a thermostat controller with a relay or are they on a switch, or just always on??

 

[amrg]

Honestly this comes factory in this region, same setup as the silverados.
But I did some research, they are connected to the pcm and I could control them using a laptop (On/off operation atleast). However, they have a thermostat that controls both fans, fan 1 is on once the coolant hits a set temp, fan 2 goes on at a slightly higher temp.
I think something like this could be used to control the fans:
http://www.haydenauto.com/Featured Products-2 Speed 2 Fan Controller/Content.aspx

As for my fans, they are spal fans (they supply oem apparently) but any fan would work.

 

[Mb30sdl]

U in SoCal after replacement of radiator I haven't seeing my temp over half on gauge, I ran it for about a year with trailers in 100+*. Switching over to electric fan is going to cost you $300+ some mods.
plus some users saying it sounds like a leaf blower when it's on. I kept mech set up and changed. Clutch as maintaince .

 

[whylee]

I found a company that makes a 2 row replacement radiator, I would rather have the 2 row over the single if they are a good company. Its by a company called Shepherd, they cost less than most single row radiators and the dimensions listed are the same as oem. Anyone ever use one from this company?

 

[Mb30sdl]

I tough we have 2 row at least, 4 row would be improvement.

 

[Cyouincourt007]

That's good to know. I'm hitting high numbers in the summer time. Amy photos you could share? ?

Like mentioned above fan clutch...mine was going past half getting hot in bumper to bumper traffic but once the fan clutch was replaced she runs does not pass the hallway mark. Barely ever even gets close to it anymore hovers around 1/4.

 

[MaxPF]

I tough we have 2 row at least, 4 row would be improvement.

Oe aluminum radiators have much wider core tubes vs older copper and brass units, so a single row aluminum is equal to a 2-row copper/brass rad, and a 2 row aluminum = 4 row copper brass. IIRC the aftermarket aluminum radiators are 3 or 4 row, but it gets very difficult to draw air through the cooling stack when such a thick core is used. On top of that the air is already so hot by the time it passes the first 2 rows that it doesn't pull much heat from the remaining row(s). Kinda a diminishing-return thing.

 

[Mb30sdl]

Like I said I use one in H3 and second in f350 for ~6+ month and newer had any issues. F350 has a tuner and tows 10k+. H2's and GMC's alum radiators are on the shelf waiting for OE to fail.

 

[MaxPF]

Not generally the case Max though.............I acknowledge aluminum radiators are susceptible to premature failure due to stray electrical current but this is easy to identify and rectify using a multimeter. The instructions that come with the PWR Radiator include a warning of this problem and how to check your vehicle before &after fitting.

It's not electrolysis failure. They fail at the joints where the core tubes are furnace brazed to the side plates. They don't usually start leaking right away, you just smell coolant all the time.