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AC only blowing cold on left-most notch

6pack

Active Member
Messages
25
Location
Eldersburg, MD
So I jump in the truck a couple of days ago and had the AC all the way up (to the left). After driving a few minutes it's cold enough and I dial it down a few notches and it starts blowing hot air. It is only cold on that left-most notch now. What's the issue?
Thanks,
Paul
 

deserth3

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,078
Location
Conroe, TX
Hunner did a write up. I don't remember if there were pictures. But here is the text I saved.

This should fix the problem of turning the far left climate control knob off of max cold temp and have it blow hot air with no variable.
I did some searching and someone else discovered this fix, not sure who originated it.
This supposedly would get the reference voltage (5 volts?) regulated again if the switch circuitry has failed or wherever the 5 volts originates.

The light blue with black stripe wire, terminal f circuit 1688, on the driver side of the hvac control head needs 68 ohm 1/2 watt resistor installed inline.

The procedure here is the HUNNER method of installing it. Proceed at your own risk.

I did not disconnect the battery as I wanted to confirm this resistor fixed it instead of by some fluke disconnecting the battery did.
Set the parking brake. Turn the key on.
It helps to shift to Low. However leaving the key on will drive you nuts so after removing the dash piece I put it back in park.
Disconnecting the battery would of course shut the dinger bell off. So I would recommend that and you can leave it in low to have more room, now that we know this did fix it. (fingers crossed)
First you have to do the stick your fingers in the DC sockets and pull up and out.
I cut me a piece of cardboard for a work surface in case solder dropped.
I disconnected the plug from the back of the switch to get more room to work
Find the light blue wire with black stripe. I peeled back the high quality gooey sticky black electrical tape GM chose to use far enough to expose the wire back into the loom so I could slide on some shrink wrap long enough to cover the splice.
Call me old school, I'm old and went to school, but just as in my battery thread I make a physical connection first then solder.
I used some forceps for a heat sink.
I used a Radio Shack 68 ohm 1/2 watt resistor. They come 5 to a pack for $1.30 or $.26 a piece.
If you don't know, use a low wattage iron so as not to fry the insulation on each end. Heat the wire until it pulls some solder as you feed it.
Use some fine solder, Radio Shack still has that!
Grabbed a short piece of shrink wrap I keep around. After the solder area cools slide the shrink wrap you remembered to slide on BEFORE you soldered over the entire splice. Use a heat gun carefully to shrink the wrap and secure and insulate your splice. I did not re-tape it at this time as I wanted to test it first. I will use a high grade of black electrical tape or some loom.
Now in transitional fall weather you can adjust the air temp but leave on the air conditioning to freshen your cabin temp and humidity!
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
Is that something cheap and easy to replace? :)

easy yes, cheap - depends on what you think "cheap" is.... $170-$220

that fix bothers me, the reference voltage comes from the sensor in the a/c system that keeps the pressures from destroying the pump. While it's certainly possible to remove the pressure sensor from the system (by putting a resistor in line) you run the risk of blowing the a/c pump (I suppose it could blow lines, but the pump is generally the weakest link). If it is the sensor, that means removing the freon from the system and replacing the sensor (which itself is cheap) then recharging the system - figure about $500 at a shop since you need an freon evac system and a vacuum pump to get the air out of the system.

in any case, I'll modify what I said before - get the system tested or get a tech II computer to test it yourself.
 

Hans3T

Lif"T"ed
Messages
3,035
Location
NC
Thank Recon for this one. I've had this exact problem and this solved it. Good luck.

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Posted via Integrated Brain Wave Chip
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,663
Location
Scottsdale
easy yes, cheap - depends on what you think "cheap" is.... $170-$220

that fix bothers me, the reference voltage comes from the sensor in the a/c system that keeps the pressures from destroying the pump. While it's certainly possible to remove the pressure sensor from the system (by putting a resistor in line) you run the risk of blowing the a/c pump (I suppose it could blow lines, but the pump is generally the weakest link). If it is the sensor, that means removing the freon from the system and replacing the sensor (which itself is cheap) then recharging the system - figure about $500 at a shop since you need an freon evac system and a vacuum pump to get the air out of the system.

in any case, I'll modify what I said before - get the system tested or get a tech II computer to test it yourself.
I don't pretend to know a/c systems at all so I can't rebut any of what you stated. But I believe the "Hunner fix" was actually from a GM TSB. My troubleshooting was done by doing the HVAC reset and swapping out with a known good HVAC control unit, and I still had the problem. The resistor fix has been in for 3-4 years so far and it's safe to say the a/c gets used a bit here. There may be risk but I may also be a good test case to say that risk is probably pretty low.
 

Steve #1

Well-Known Member
Messages
534
Location
TEXAS
easy yes, cheap - depends on what you think "cheap" is.... $170-$220

that fix bothers me, the reference voltage comes from the sensor in the a/c system that keeps the pressures from destroying the pump. While it's certainly possible to remove the pressure sensor from the system (by putting a resistor in line) you run the risk of blowing the a/c pump (I suppose it could blow lines, but the pump is generally the weakest link). If it is the sensor, that means removing the freon from the system and replacing the sensor (which itself is cheap) then recharging the system - figure about $500 at a shop since you need an freon evac system and a vacuum pump to get the air out of the system.

in any case, I'll modify what I said before - get the system tested or get a tech II computer to test it yourself.

The reference signal that is being modified is for the blender actuators. You aren't going to harm the AC system.

I did the Resistor fix with no luck. My next step was going to be to remove the actuators and clean them. They get dirt in the grease and stick causing the reference signal to be out of bounds and the system goes in to fail safe mode. I didn't get around to messing with it for a few weeks and it suddenly started working.
 

Best4x4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,042
Location
Vidor, TX
My wife's 07 is doing this. Tried Radio Shack for a 68ohm 1/2 watt resistor, but as usual it's just cell phones these days.... So I took my troubleshooting a step further. I inspected the blend motors. The top unit is the blower position while the bottom two appear to be for the hot/cold operation. I took the lower motors off, inspected them, and swapped their postion and then calibrated the system again. Had the same results with the motors swapped. I know from years of owning Land Rover's the blend motors don't last forever, but in this case I don't think thats the issue here.

I think the issue is within the control unit for the HVAC. The "Hunner" fix should not hurt anything since the issue isn't with the compressor but the blend motor operation. With the two clicks right and full heat issue the compressor is still cycling. I am going to try the 68ohm 1/2 watt resistor trick and I will report back. I have a pontiac hvac unit, but it does not function correctly in an H3.
 

Ghostbuster

Well-Known Member
Messages
862
Location
United States
I had this problem after installing an aftermarket radio. Then about a month later I had an audio shop install an amp and subwoofer and the problem went away.

I probably didn't install the plug all the way back on or something.

Have you messed with the dash plugs at all? Maybe it has come loose?

It might be worth it just to check. Before you go splicing wires and adding a resistor.

Dash removal is pretty easy.

Put a finger in each power slot on the bottom right of the dash and just pull.

There are a lot of connectors for all the switches and stuff. I'd unplug the one for the ac control and plug it back in.
 

Best4x4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,042
Location
Vidor, TX
Yeah it's not the plugs. The Pontiac unit worked, but the recirulate LED is backwards, and I guess it's also programmed differently because it would freeze up after long drives (OEM original unit does not cause this). My thinking is it runs the compressor for longer times to compensate for warmer cab temps due to a soft top. P/N on the boards is the same with the revision. I took it out once I noticed the differences.

I inspected the blend motor functions and compared it to my 08 Alpha. Motors are in the same position when they function. I swapped the position of the two lower blend motors to see if one was faulty or the symtoms would change. I swapped them, calibrated the HVAC unit and had the same results. When I locate a 68ohm 1/2 watt resistor (cell shack aka radio shack didn't carry them) I am going to give it a try. Probably won't solder it in unless it works lol. I am pretty sure it's a control panel issue vs blend motor issue.
 

Best4x4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,042
Location
Vidor, TX
Did the resistor mod once I was able to get my hands on some. Cleaned up the wiring, calibrated it, and boom it works. This mod will not blow anything up compressor wise. It moves the blend motors properly after the resistor being added. If u want true heat you've just gotta turn off both orange LED's for recirculate and the snowflake for AC. Then you have 100% heat. The compressor will run if you just have recirulate on. Cheap easy mod and I'm almost certain GM did this for warranty work on H3 HVAC controls vs replacing them.
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
Just for reference this is the link back to where I originally posted the fix with my pictures when I fixed mine.
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?3962-Climate-Control-fix

I believe it was a fix posted for a Pontiac of all things.
Cannot find the link where I found it and that it would work on an H3.

I did not ever claim to have originated it and stated so in the other post.

I have not idea how this stuff works but I like to learn from others that have it figured out.
 

Best4x4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,042
Location
Vidor, TX
Yeah the Pontiac and Saturn both shared the same HVAC control setup with a few changes to the way it operates (Recirculate function is the opposite of an H3) and apparently it cycles the compressor longer because when I installed them in my both my H3's I started having them freeze up on longer drives (Maybe because they're convertibles).

Fix worked great, and with a little heat shrink tubing, and electrical tape it's back to looking 100% OEM.
 
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