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4x4 selector button bar

05Mudiak

Well-Known Member
Messages
731
Location
Lake Charles, LA
OK I just scored what I think to be pretty good deals for the 3. All new parts, drivers window switches $80, headlight switch w/ onstar buttons $26, 4x4 button bar with rear locker button and a 4x4 button bar with front and rear locker buttons both $20. each.

oK my question is has anyone looked at the back of the locker buttons is it possible to use them on a non locker equiped 3 (ofcourse after installing lockers) if not going through the comp could they be used just as on/off switchs wireing them directly to the locker?

Thanks for any help with this:cheers:
 

ReconH3

Guardian Angel
Messages
2,288
Location
Raleigh, NC
Anything is possible if you electrical knowhow. I'm pretty useless in that department. I had a guy help me do something similar in my old pickup, and it worked.


"Ex Umbris Venimus"

Sent from my iPhone
 

Steve #1

Well-Known Member
Messages
534
Location
TEXAS
It's been a while, but I took mine apart when I relocated my switches. If im not mistaken, they are momentary switches so you would need to use a latching relay for the locker. I don't recal the whole setup for the leds, but I'm sure you could get them setup to indicate based on the status of the relay.
 

05Mudiak

Well-Known Member
Messages
731
Location
Lake Charles, LA
Thats what I was thinking they were. I was hopeing they wern't but I think your right on the momentary. I hope I can get them to work. I have plety of time it will be a while before I actually get lockers.

For the prices I got them for I figure why not give it a whirl
 

Steve #1

Well-Known Member
Messages
534
Location
TEXAS
You gan get a small PCB latching relay for $1 and use it to trigger a 30A relay. Its just a little extra soldering.
 

05Mudiak

Well-Known Member
Messages
731
Location
Lake Charles, LA
I was just looking at latching relays never used one before. I only see ones the you have to reverse the polarity to make it switch back. Is there any that you know of the switch without having to reverse the polarity?

I did read that there are ones that don't need reverse polarity but I could have just read that wrong
 

Steve #1

Well-Known Member
Messages
534
Location
TEXAS
There are a few ways to do it depending on what you are trying to accomplish and the exact types of relays. Easyiest way basicly uses a DPDT latching relay where the other "half" of the relay reverses the polarity of the switch. when you turn off power, it will default to the off state. I'll have to look for a schematic.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,505
Location
Meridian, ID
I spoke to my dealer about this back when I put my lockers in and they told me that these switches are tied to the vehicle VINs.

That sucks...Is there a way that mudiak could just set them up independent from the other switches so VIN wouldnt matter?
 

05Mudiak

Well-Known Member
Messages
731
Location
Lake Charles, LA
From what I understand the switches themselves are not VIN specific it's just if the comp is compatable, thats why I am trying to use the locker switches directly to the lockers and bypass the comp. I may be wrong though.
 

MECH Mike

Active Member
Messages
25
Location
Oceanside, CA
Im interested in the 4x4 button bar. Mine melted because I hung a Christmas tree air freshner from the air vent and some sort of chemical reaction melted the button
 

05Mudiak

Well-Known Member
Messages
731
Location
Lake Charles, LA
Ebay the guy actually has a couple more too. he has all 3 versions, no locker, rear only and front and rear. I am asuming he is one of the guys that use to work at the H3 plant in shreveport, since he lives right down he street, that scored a bunch of parts when they shut down. There is a couple guys around that have a ton of 3 parts.
 

08SolarFlareH3

Super Swampers
Messages
2,525
Location
Finger Lakes, NY
Ebay the guy actually has a couple more too. he has all 3 versions, no locker, rear only and front and rear. I am asuming he is one of the guys that use to work at the H3 plant in shreveport, since he lives right down he street, that scored a bunch of parts when they shut down. There is a couple guys around that have a ton of 3 parts.
Maybe he was smuggling parts out in his lunch box everyday, trying to build his own H3 :wink:.
 

AlaskaDan

Well-Known Member
Messages
66
Location
Edgewood, NM
Sorry, but not a fan of the 4x4 bar. Also the swithes are VIN specific depending on an adventure package and on what year for front lockers

The push buttons are crap. There is no internal spring to push the button back out. Over time (miles, I have 110,00 miles) the buttons stick. Mine stick all time and it takes the right 'jab' the get the button to pop back out.

If you are putting in aftermarket lockers, put in a hardwired metal toggle switch, (the lighted ones are choice) that supply power directly to the lockers and bypass the computer altogether. BUT put in a fail safe switch (under the hood) so that you don't accidently hit the locker switch when your doing 65mph.

Use heavy guage wire and fuses and your set up will be better than stock.

Dan
 

Steve #1

Well-Known Member
Messages
534
Location
TEXAS
What exactly is "VIN specific" about the switches? Are you saying if I removed the switch from my base H3 and put it in another base H3 it won't work because it knows it is in the wrong vehicle? Are you saying the diferent models are diferent? I don't recall looking at diferent schematics when I rewired mine.

I seriously do not understand this or why it would be done this way.
 

ReconH3

Guardian Angel
Messages
2,288
Location
Raleigh, NC
I'm guessing here so somebody correct me if I'm wrong. I don't think the buttons are VIN specific. The computer that controls the lockers (PCM or BCM) are specific to the vehicle. The harness the switch plugs into is wired through the computer. Since a base H3 isn't programmed for lockers, the switch would not work. If you wire the switches, independently of the factory electrical harness, then it should work. The difficulty will be in figuring out what the pins do. Any decent electrician should know how. We did it with my Mitsubishi pickup with and OEM locker switch.


"Ex Umbris Venimus"

Sent from my iPhone
 
Last edited:

05Mudiak

Well-Known Member
Messages
731
Location
Lake Charles, LA
The guy i bought the from retired from the Hummer factory in shreveport (bout 15mins from my house) but when they shut down the H3 line (they still go colorado and canyons) They wrote off all the H3 parts and let the supervisors take the part to their house. So he has a bunch of parts and know other that have more

here is his ebay email, goodone to have

jeffdb_hw5395ndz@members.ebay.com
 

f5moab

Mr. Beretta
Messages
1,999
Location
In hiding.....
VIN specific?

Two meanings for VIN specific! Some dealers will tell you the shocks on my H3 are VIN specific, since if replaced under warranty, they will replace with the shocks ordered via my VIN number. In case of a non-adventure series, the shocks would be standard, in my case they would befor an adventure series vehicle. Prevents the dealer from ordering a set of adventure series shocks for a standard vehicle and GM paying for it. Can the dealer override the feature? Yes, but it could spark a look see by an auditor.

The switch would also be ordered via the VIN number. Saves the parts guy having to look it up, and prevents (hopefully) GM from sending out an incorrect part for a specific (VIN) vehicle.
I am not going to look at the wiring, but I would bet a lunch that you can install any switch into any vehicle.

However, if you install a switch assembly with a rear locker button into a vehicle that did not come with a rear locker (non-adventure series), the switch would be dead. The connector would fit, but it would do nothing (other than light up at night) since the module it needs to signal would not have the internal circuitry to lock a locker. (Now I say it won’t do anything, but I might be wrong since I have never tried this. I am going to guess that the wire from the switch to the TCCM is in place since it allowed GM to produce only one of these pigtails. And GM would figure that if the correct switch assembly was installed, there would be no input from the switch to the TCCM. So by installing a switch assembly with a locker button, and pushing that button, might send out a signal that the TCCM will not know how to handle. BUT, I also assume that the TCCM on a non-adventure series does not have the circuitry internal for a locker so it will not even know a signal from a switch was received.)

VIN specific in engineering relates to those items that are identified by the VIN programmed into them so that the main controller (the BCM in the H3) can identify that they are working properly. Off the top of my head that would be all the main modules (EBCM, SDM, PCM (or ECM and TCM), IPC, VCIM, TCCM, etc., including the radio. Might be a few more, don’t care to pull up the engineering data at this time.

As for getting 110K miles before having the switches start to stick; I find that amazing. I cannot go 10K miles on mine without having to switch out between the two sets I have. I posted a thread on how to clean these switches; takes about fifteen minutes after removing and most of that time is to blow the buttons and housing dry after washing. But I will agree, if installing a front locker switch, get a good one from an auto or electrical store that won’t jam after a few thousand miles.

Factory switches can be purchased from GM Parts Direct, believe they are about 30+ including shipping, but I got my spare assembly over a year ago.

For using this switch assembly, Steve1 is most likely correct. A locking relay should work. But again, why? I would still go with a GOOD switch.

As for the guy in LA with the switches. Hate to say it, he stole them. If GM writes off an item on their inventory to the IRS, that item has to be destroyed by FEDERAL LAW (IRS LAW THAT IS). I know, I helped oversee the destruction of thousands of Saturn Parts when we closed Saturn engineering in Spring Hill back in 2005. Had to be witnessed by a few people and all signed statements that the parts were destroyed. GM has signed astatements that the parts were destroyed and cannot be sold again. However, why would GM write off a few hundred switches that could easily be placed into parts inventory vs. having to make more switches in the future for parts inventory? (When we destroyed parts in Spring Hill, all parts that were new were put back into viable stock inventory, the items we destroyed were parts that were not new, but still held value if resold and they had to be destroyed if written off as a loss via the IRS, or sent to an approved re-seller if not being written off on taxes.)

No doubt, the dude in LA stole those parts and is reselling them on ebay.:whaa:
 
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