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H3T Pop-up camper?

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
Hey guys!

I have been thinking that I am going to attempt to build a camper to put in the back of my H3T for my girl friend and I this spring.

Now before you get any crazy ideas about the 80's campers getting chopped up and stuffed in the back I was thinking more along the lines of a fiberglass one similar to the type that Phoenix builds

An example floor plan:
P.U.L.S.E.-SC2.jpg
With the exterior similar to the Pulse for the Jeep Wrangler:
(very bottom of the three)
Jeeps-copy.jpg

And a bit of a mix of this:
raptor-pulse-61.jpg

My questions is, has there been anything like this already done on the H3T?

My main requirements:
Insulated
Cook area
Table to eat at
Low profile
Easy to set up & take down
Sleeping area for two
Doesn't look like a homemade hack job
Low budget (lower then the $12,000 it would cost from Phoenix)

What do you guys think??
Thanks guys!!
 

ReconH3

Guardian Angel
Messages
2,288
Location
Raleigh, NC
That would be the ultimate expedition vehicle! :D I've only seen a couple of 3Ts with roof top tents on the back over the bed.


"Ex Umbris Venimus"
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
Not a H3T but looks like a wagon converted to a motorhome

[video=youtube;nisudwfmHWw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nisudwfmHWw[/video]

That would be the ultimate expedition vehicle! :D I've only seen a couple of 3Ts with roof top tents on the back over the bed.


"Ex Umbris Venimus"

Thanks for posting the Video Chook, that must be a fellow aussie that made that camper I'm thinking! The whole time I was in Oz I noticed all this amazing rigs set up prefect for Overland Travel!

Recon, the only downfall would be the 10-12mpg that I am getting, but then again I am talking with the guys a PCM so that number might bump up 2-3mpg!!

I think it would ba an amazing set up! If i use the box "Mounting rail" system that they have in there to secure the camper shell down It should be a breeze to put on and take off!
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,674
Location
Scottsdale
Floorplan might be a bit optimistic - the T bed isn't very long. But I think you have a great concept on hand. It might make sense to also look at ways to get somethings outside of the camper, like cooking or the water supply. I know there was a cool video posted a while back about an Australian solution.
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
I was thinking that the cook top is a bit optimistic... I guess if it was built with the plan in mind to cook outside for most of the time but have a small shelf with cabinets below on the opposite side of the "table" with the ability to hold a portable stove and wash pan (separately of course) for those chilly days where cooking outside is not favorable would be a lot more likely.

thanks for your input Alrock, This is the whole reason for the tread, just to talk about the idea so once warmer weather the collective brain trust that is H4O will have come up with a favorable solution and I can be the guinea pig!
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,674
Location
Scottsdale
I had one other thought about this last night - what would you do for storage of clothing, gear, food, water, etc? Some of it would fit under the counter/seats, etc. but it almost seems like you'd have to pull a trailer to have enough gear for something like a few days of camping. And of course if you have a trailer, that brings up the debate of simply having the trailer be the camper. There could be enough storage in the truck for a couple of days supplies and maybe longer trips would require a trailer. Or a lot of trips to Walmart.
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
For the water that will be built in under the furthest back seat cushion, then under the other cushion will either hold storage for clothes and other odds and ends.. Plus over flow can go in the back row of seats.

I was thinking I would either get ARB's big awning or the "fox wing" to go around the side & back and be set up to do most of the cooking outside unless conditions get REALLY bad, then i'll make due with cooking inside with what room we got...that will free up a bunch of space.

My girlfriend and I are used to being tenters.... So we are not looking for a huge leap in luxury, if that was a concern then yes I would be looking for a different setup or perhaps a trailer...

I believe the added leaves out back will be sufficient enough to handle the set up we have in mind

To keep weight down I will be using fibreglass for the exterior wood for the base frame work and the tin studs to provide support and add insulation to fill in the gaps... Should work
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
FWIW, H3 leafs are stiffer than H3T leafs. I've got both and I've swapped them in & out of my H3 to see what (if any) difference there is...the H3 springs sit about an inch higher. You'll probably want an add-a-leaf (Speedy's spring mod) at the least. I'de stay away from any sort of shackle swap, as it doesn't really address the problem. Shackles are a band-aid way to raise an H3, when the real problem is spring rate. You might consider adding some air-bags like GH3t did (do a search). I still think you'll have a pig when you're done...hopefully you have an alpha.
 

Portager

■ ☼▐▐▐▐▐▐▐ ☼■
Messages
1,506
Location
Silverado
I looked into the pop-up camper option but I did not consider the DIY approach. You might want to check out the thread I started at http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?2534-Naked-Bed&highlight=H3T+camper . I did figure out the Phoenix was the only one that would fit the H3T (because they are custom made to fit your truck). A used FWC Falcon would save you a lot of money but they won't fit.

My (wife's) main requirements were a bed up off the ground, a porti-potty inside (at least at night) and a warm shower. I wanted insulation and heat because we go out to the desert in the winter when the day-time highs are mild, but the over night lows can get pretty low. I got a quote for their ultra-lite build (gets the weight down to 850 lbs) with the following options:

"*Triple Layer Insulated Liner *Double welded "pro-flex" aluminum frame *Automatic forced air 20,000 btu furnace with LP System 20 lb tank included *Double sink with electric water pump *Fiberglass molded counter top *3 burner stove*fridge*4 corner camper jacks *Fantastic Vent power roof vent *Deep cycle battery with complete wiring system *Converter *Fiberglass siding *Complete installation on your vehicle *Under bed storage with gas strut lift *Queen size main loft bed *Phoenix "simple lift" roof *Screen door *Tinted large side window *Decorator curtains for all windows *Dinette *Phoenix exclusive aerodynamic cab over *LED light 12v light fixtures *Large front slider and side window *Exclusive Phoenix Body Graphs *Quality sheet vinyl flooring * 7 way truck plug* ? Your choice in size, gallon fresh water tank.
Customer Requests These Options: Build Ultra light.
Aluminum Scissor Steps - $379
8' Crank Out Awning - $849
Hot Water System with External Shower -$899
Custom Paint - $1500 We will need your paint code..."

The quote was a lot more than their starting price. I can forward you this quote if you PM me your email address.

The biggest issue will be keeping the weight down and making it look professional. The Phoenix uses a welded aluminum structure with fiberglass siding.

I would consider the air bag helper suspension add-on to help with the added weight, but make sure you get one that can handle off road conditions.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,505
Location
Meridian, ID
4speed, he's lifted so hes probably running rancho leaf springs. They will not hold the weight. I forgot who makes em but there's a new air bag setup that doesn't limit downward travel and over extend the bag. Ill have to check which company makes it....
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Its an interesting project for sure, and I'm curious to see what you come up with. My wife and I have done lots of expedition camping over the years...but we are both tall (6'-2"). This is a real problem if we want to sleep inside an H3...it just isn't possible. In addition to the length, there is the issue of where to stow gear? I have found that for us...leaving the gear inside, and setting up a tent outside on the ground seems to make for better logistics. Its far easier and more comfortable to haul out a tent...than it is to un-load all the gear every night, so we can sleep inside a cramped truck. If I'm going camping for more than 3-days in the H3...I bring my custom off-road trailer. This seems to work really well.

I still own my trusty ole 99 Suburban 2500 4x4...and its more suited for "indoor camping". Frankly...with the addition of some bumpers, 35" tires, and a lift-kit, I think the Suburban could de-throne the H3 in the expedition category. Its a tad big for some trails, and its easy to drag the rear bumper. But other than these minor annoyances...its a better choice if you gotta live for a couple weeks in the bush. BTW...the 7000lb. 5.7L Burban gets 14mpg while the 3.7L H3 struggles to break 13mpg. This is amazing when you consider it has twice the interior space, and can haul twice the load without any squat whatsoever.
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
4speed, he's lifted so hes probably running rancho leaf springs. They will not hold the weight. I forgot who makes em but there's a new air bag setup that doesn't limit downward travel and over extend the bag. Ill have to check which company makes it....

That will be good info, I figured with the higher spring rate that it would be able to support more the the 1090lb rating that's in the manual
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
Its an interesting project for sure, and I'm curious to see what you come up with. My wife and I have done lots of expedition camping over the years...but we are both tall (6'-2"). This is a real problem if we want to sleep inside an H3...it just isn't possible. In addition to the length, there is the issue of where to stow gear? I have found that for us...leaving the gear inside, and setting up a tent outside on the ground seems to make for better logistics. Its far easier and more comfortable to haul out a tent...than it is to un-load all the gear every night, so we can sleep inside a cramped truck. If I'm going camping for more than 3-days in the H3...I bring my custom off-road trailer. This seems to work really well.

I still own my trusty ole 99 Suburban 2500 4x4...and its more suited for "indoor camping". Frankly...with the addition of some bumpers, 35" tires, and a lift-kit, I think the Suburban could de-throne the H3 in the expedition category. Its a tad big for some trails, and its easy to drag the rear bumper. But other than these minor annoyances...its a better choice if you gotta live for a couple weeks in the bush. BTW...the 7000lb. 5.7L Burban gets 14mpg while the 3.7L H3 struggles to break 13mpg. This is amazing when you consider it has twice the interior space, and can haul twice the load without any squat whatsoever.

It's funny how that works, I have the 5.3L with a Super charger so mine is even worse.... But has plenty of ponies!
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,505
Location
Meridian, ID
ok, I had those and they sag...I think its a cool as hell project and am not trying to put it down just pointing out some other considerations that will have to probably go into the build. The springs are too soft with the load you plan to put back there. The shackles will hit the frame when hitting bumps in the road, heres ride height with rancho springs with some weight in the back

2012-02-04_16-07-20_439.jpg


Airbags can cure this but the downside is limited downtravel as the air bag is being tugged on and is a limiting factor. Daystar came out with the airbag cradle where the air bag goes into a cup and assists in load but during downward suspension travel the bag isnt attached to anything on the axle allowing full downward travel.

[video=youtube;r4QBG3izhyA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4QBG3izhyA[/video]

http://www.4wheelparts.com/ProductList2.aspx?catid=67&subcat=2&ptid=11241&Manufacturer_PQ=Daystar

I personally think you could make your own kit and use a bigger bag but you get the general idea. If you want to avoid that go with regular bags, they will work but they MIGHT limit downward travel(depends on the bags), or long travel bags(more money) or custom leaf springs with a higher spring rate. or helper springs and air bags. While I am all for a spring over I dont see it helping here because the springs would still be way too soft and then you would throw them into negative arch. You could run deavers but they would kill ground clearance for rocks, desert high speed and handling weight they would match your needs. If you wanna run a higher spring rate deaver spring with a spring over that would solve all your problems with weight and ground clearance. The possiblities are endless, from low buck to higher amount and from bolt on to weld on. Feel free to ask any questions via suspension and weight and I will try to help. I am clueless with the camper aspect, portager did some research and can help you there.
 

TXH3T

Well-Known Member
Messages
269
Location
Prescott AZ
While the suspension will be an issue I think the bigger concern is weight. Ts are heavy and have small margins for weight load in the first place. Adding all the weight associated with the camper will cause you to exceed your GVWR (less of a big deal) and your max axle weights(much more of a big deal). Something lighter like an AT flip pac may be a better solution. Im not sure what your price range is but with the power your truck has a trailer might be a good option. It eliminates the weight issue and lets you leave your camp at the site and go wheel. The handling will improve tremendously without the added weight as well. My favorite part is that you can leave your camping gear in the trailer and not have to deal with loading and unloading before every trip.
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
You guys have raised some really good points and now I am second guessing this whole Idea, I know I can make it light, but will it be enough... where as if I put the time and effort into a trailer I wont have to worry about that..... hmmmm

Has anyone ever mounted a RTT on the rail system of the snug top? I was thinking It could be done in two ways
1- Have the rails mounting the tent to the snug top longer in the rear thus leveling out the RTT and use it with the top closed all the way
-this creates some hassle getting things out of the box
2- come up with a way to support the rear of the snug top in a slightly raised up manor which would level out the RTT then making the back more accessible
-Can the Sungtop hold that much weight if its just supported at the ends?

Or just get a tent trailer, lift it up a bit and call it good haha... too many decisions to make!!
 

Pappibri

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,611
Location
Cohoctah, MI
I believe that the best route would either get a tent trailer, or build your own... I would love to see what you envision come to fruition, but I think that it is way more work than the other option, which would leave you in a better wheeling position.
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
I built my own off-road trailer, and I absolutely love it. Its small, so the H3 can pull it without any issues. It rolls on 35"s with Hummer bolt-pattern hubs (shares the spare with the truck). I can carry all my camping gear, firewood, and some THORparts bumpers...without worrying about extra weight in my truck. When I get where I'm going...I just un-hook it...set up camp...go wheeling...and return to my campsite afterwards. I have a Boulder Accessories rack mounted on top (hydraulic hinges of course), and this can pull double duty for mountain bikes, kayaks, NASCAR observation deck, or whatever. I have found that leaving it as a "box trailer"...I am free to outfit it for many different uses...firewood, mulch, gravel, axles, recycle-runs, trail clean-up, etc. This works better for me than building a full-time, dedicated, camper-only trailer that would just sit around and only get used for camping. I'm surprised how much I use this...

trailer003.JPGLOADED2.JPGtrailer001.JPG

Next mods will be LED lights recessed into the bumper (because I keep hooking them on trees)...and also a 2"x2" welded-wire platform for the tongue area. I have an Igloo cube cooler that will sit perfectly right there. By using the wire mesh, I can bungee the cooler or anything else to the tongue, instead of installing permanent gear. I would also like to upgrade the hitch to a hi-angle off-road type to prevent binding. I use water-proof Army surplus Pelican cases for my camping gear, and it all fits nicely in the 4'x6' box.
 
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