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Front Cv axle replacement - questions, how to

joe380

Active Member
Messages
30
Location
The Woodlands
Well I started hearing clicking noises when accelerating from the front right on my h3 so after further inspection it looks like the cv boot is ripped where it connects to the differential. Well I ordered a new axle and a differential seal for the repairs.
Will I need to drain and replace my differential fluid?
Anyone have any tips for the swap?
Does anyone know of a walk through with pictures of a video I can watch?

I'm just getting ready to do start the repairs and thought I'd check here first.
 

skippy

Well-Known Member
Messages
471
Location
brisbane australia
no you won't have to drain anything.
it is just a matter of pulling out the old and putting in the new.

not as easy as that but you do have to drop the hub to remove the old one.
i would keep the old one and clean it as a stub for when you are off road and one breaks you can remove the broken part and put the stub in to get you home.
 

954paulo

Well-Known Member
Messages
467
Location
ny
EASY JOB. 30 minutes the second time you do it.

loosen cv nut
remove wheel
remove brakes caliper and hang it up
remove the lower shock bolt
remove the top control arm nut that mounts to the top of the hub
i used a flat head screw driver and hammered into the open slot after you remove the bolt
i left the lower arm connected and just pulled the cv out with some persuasion.
flat bar helps unclick the axle from the diff.

sounds much harder then it is.
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,643
Location
Scottsdale
Few other tips:
Newer and aftermarket half shafts could be longer than the one you have. I have had to remove to lower ball joint as well.

My version was a bit different than paulo's:
Loosen axle nut with 35mm or 36mm socket
Remove wheel
Remove caliper and hang to side
Remove tie rod end - 21mm or 22mm deep socket. Hard hits on the knuckle with a hammer should release tie rod after nut is removed
Remove upper ball joint - hard hits may work to release it after nut is removed. Tie rod puller (u-shaped device with center push bolt) may help too. http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6296-Pitman-Arm-Puller/dp/B000KITTYU/ref=pd_cp_hi_2
Pull axle out from knuckle - compress the CV, bend and twist.
Pull axle out from diff - just needs a hard tug or two
I don't recall removing the lower shock bolt (even though I've done this five times. Maybe I removed it, just can't remember)
On inserting the half shaft, be sure the C-clip is with the open side facing downwards to minimize resistance on insertion
As mentioned, some half shafts can be put in w/o undoing lower ball joint, some can't. Difference is about 5mm length.

Axle seal - an axle seal puller from the auto parts store ($10) can make it a lot easier to remove. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56750-S...&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=lisle+axle+seal+puller
Inserting it - grease it up a bit to help insertion. A large socket and hammer can help seat it.

Spread some diff oil on axle to help slide it in. Be careful on sliding it in - those splines are sharp and can tear the seal. These axle seal protectors can help: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kent-Moore-..._Automotive_Tools&hash=item51b058d5ee&vxp=mtr

You won't need to replace or even top off the diff oil as a nominal amount will come out.

Do NOT use a pickle fork for the tie rod ends or the ball joints as you'll just tear up the rubber boots. It may help to spray penetrating oil on the boots, ends, etc. to help. We tore tie rod end boots once just because they were six years old and fused to the knuckle. Penetrating oil might have prevented that issue.

You don't need to purchase from these links - auto parts stores and Harbor Freight would be fine.
 

ArtHummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,220
Location
Gaithersburg/MD
The job is fairly easy. I would recommend to remove the hub completely, it will make your job much more easy and comfortable.
Only one thing I would recommend is to replace your diff axle seals. It's only about $10 and take only a minute to get it in wile you already there.
 

joe380

Active Member
Messages
30
Location
The Woodlands
Update: I went outside Sunday during the day and looked at what I was getting myself into. I noticed that both axles needed to be replaced. The passenger side was clicking and driver's side boot was torn. Well with 95 degree Texas weather and me being a computer guy,, I decided to pay for someone else to do it. Looks like it's going to come out to around $500 for two axles, two differential seals and like 3 hours labor. It's in the shop right now :)
 

954paulo

Well-Known Member
Messages
467
Location
ny
500 wow! This cost me 140 in parts and about and hour and a half of a Sunday morning. Crazy how much shops charge! Wish I saw this back when you were doing it I would have taken a video of doing mine to show you


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joe380

Active Member
Messages
30
Location
The Woodlands
500 wow! This cost me 140 in parts and about and hour and a half of a Sunday morning. Crazy how much shops charge! Wish I saw this back when you were doing it I would have taken a video of doing mine to show you


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yep $500 for both axles. the more I think about it the more I think that it's worth it, i could spend that three hours on my sunday morning doing something different. parts alone would have been 300 easily so for 200 bux i saved myself some time and frustration. :D
 

954paulo

Well-Known Member
Messages
467
Location
ny
Axle were 65 each with a life time warranty from autozone. And it's 45 minutes each side lol seals were 10 and take like a minute to chance. I have changed them 2x per side. Once when they ripped and another when I blew the front axle(yup I chewed up the ring and pinion on some rocks) and I thought it was better to change them since I had the life time warranty.


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alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,643
Location
Scottsdale
I don't think the $500 was bad. Yes, it can be done cheaper in the driveway but the price he paid was certainly fair.
 

954paulo

Well-Known Member
Messages
467
Location
ny
Sorry I wasn't trying to be a dick. Just trying to help out lol. Save you some cashola for the next time. I can relate with not having the time to fix the trunk and just bringing it some place. Mine needs a clutch in the next few months and i don't feel like changing it in this cold ass weather.




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AK RAM

Active Member
Messages
43
Location
Camden, SC
My passenger side CV went out today. Aftermarket replacements are cheap, but I'm curious whether it may be covered under my 5yr/100k powertrain warranty. Is the CV considered powertrain under 5yr/100k or just 3yr/36 "bumper to bumper", which is expired on my rig. Anyone have experience?
 

Bigunit

Hammer Down!
Staff member
Messages
6,561
Location
Arizona
Power train warranty. Just got mine replaced by the dealer on Friday.

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954paulo

Well-Known Member
Messages
467
Location
ny
How are you guys holding on to the warranties? My dealer saw my truck and voided it immediately.


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08H3

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,367
Location
United States
How are you guys holding on to the warranties? My dealer saw my truck and voided it immediately.


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Dealer can't void the warranty. They are not the ones who issues the warranty- GM is. Of course that's another can of worms. Some people have had great results, others have had miserable experiences.
 

Zach

Mall Crawler
Messages
4,812
Location
So Cal
How are you guys holding on to the warranties? My dealer saw my truck and voided it immediately.

What mods have you done to the truck? And can you pm me the last eight of the vin number. I can see if it is tagged.


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Dealer can't void the warranty. They are not the ones who issues the warranty- GM is. Of course that's another can of worms. Some people have had great results, others have had miserable experiences.

Dealers can flag the warranty. They contact their GM rep. Then GM tags the vehicle. Most are cases where the vehicle is lifted, running 24"+ wheels or they are taking it to a dealer where they outright damaged the vehicle.
 

954paulo

Well-Known Member
Messages
467
Location
ny
I needed some front end work replaced a few months back and bingo bango void! Received a refund on the warranty minus the cost of repairs for previous work. They even sent out a rep to inspect the truck and officially tell me goodbye


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