Search results

I removed and cleaned and re-inserted the VVT actuator today. But I haven't needed go anywhere today (the joy of being retired) so maybe tomorrow. I took before and after pictures. I don't think it was very dirty.

One thing I have learned over the past 6 decades of solving problems is to take one step at a time. If there are several possible solutions, fix the easiest and least expensive first. If I fix all possible issues I'll never know which one fixed it. So in this case I'll remove and clean the VVT...

Another great suggestion! I'll do that too. Thanks

Thanks for those tips. Next week I will do a compression test just for giggles. I expect the numbers will be good because about 15,000 miles ago I had the cylinder head rebuilt and a new cam cover was installed. So I think the top end is fine. It could have bad rings but I doubt that too because...

I have been using the same oil (Vavoline 5w30) for the past 15 years. The engine has 137000 miles on it. It's due for a change in 1500 more miles. I thought changing to a thicker oil is not allowed because of the VVT cams that use oil pressure to change the cam timing. If I'm wrong on that then...

The oil is coming on after fully warm on a hot day. No problem in the winter. So I figure I've got worn rod bearings and maybe mains too. My question is can the oil pan be removed without removing the engine. If so I might consider replacing just rod bearings. Thanks once again for your help.

I forgot that I had this thread going a year ago. I apologize for starting new one. I have been ignoring that play in the steering. I changed oil a few weeks back and had my wife turn the steering wheel through the free play (engine off) while I looked for the play. The shaft moves in the rack...