Fabbing new tubular uppers is not rocket science...especially if you want to keep stock geometry. You simply need some good RH and LH donors (Squeaky) and some scrap steel.
First lay them out on a flat piece of 1/4" steel, or build a frame for them. Then insert some locating pins into the bushings, and a similar pin on the centerline of the ball joint. Weld those pins to the plate, along with any other critical locating blocks (to compensate for bends or offsets in the A-arms). Then remove the stock A-arm. This is your new welding fixture. Ta-Da! Many pics can be found on Google images...
Once you have RH and LH jigs made, you need to get the bushings & bushing barrels for the pivot points. Also you would need to find the ball-joint and sleeve for the outer end. All of this stuff can be found online. I assume re-using the stock eccentric bolts would be part of the build, so you could adjust the camber just like stock. If not...the truck could be converted to use shims between the pivot shaft and the frame (like many other vehicles use). Then slip your three critical points onto the pins on the fixture, grab the appropriate tubing, a bender, a welder, and go to work. With the fixutre, you can make 1 or 1000 of them the same every time. I think the difficult part would be if you wanted to adjust the geometry or change some angles...then you get into some math and theory that's way over my head.
You might also approach a company called UMI. They make really nice replacement suspension parts for many applications. I bet they have an entire room filled with welding fixtures for each application. Send them Squeaky's arms and they might be able to crank some out....
http://umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=8_59
